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I'd second that. Skip the 125w. Hellolights has MH retrokits. 150w DE electronic ballast kit. $125 + a bit more for bulb and extra wire. http://www.hellolights.com/17methalbalk.html 175w Single Ended magnetic ballast probe start $79 + bulb and extra wire...

It seems like enough light unless you want to add something that's more light hungry. I'd change out the actinic for a .03 actinic if you're gonna stick with what you've got. If you can fit a MH pendant over the tank it will give you more to choose from stock-wise. B

Looks normal to me. Just use the magnet cleaner to wipe off the glass. You can siphon the brown off the sandbed if it's bothering you, but just reducing your photoperiod will likely get rid of it. I don't cycle my tanks with the lights on at all, then when I turn it on it's not a full...

http://www.nanotank.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1401 http://www.nanotank.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1408

Thats what I was gonna comment on. I've never heard of a 125w metal halide. 70w, 100w in 5500k, 150w mostly in double ended bulbs, 175w, but not 125w. Maybe it's a typo, or it's one of these. If you already have corals in the tank, upgrading to any higher lighting will need a...

You can siphon the debris, and the green algae out. B

Then just add the buggers and don't worry about it. The gramma is likely act territorial for a day or so then calm back down. It might not even act that way if it's something that's not similar in body shape, or color. B

Out of curiosity, why is this thread in the tank photography forum? LOL B

test

Nope...Just means he's eating and growing, and doing well. B

http://www.ultimatereef.net/forums/inde ... 31613&st=0 Thanks to leaffish for finding the thread on RC that led me to the full thread here. http://www.ultimatereef.net/forums/inde ... 31613&st=0 B

You can just use regular pliers to squish it once it's heated up. I did the same thing but didn't think to use a coin as a spacer. It worked fine, but thats a real nice touch. B

:D :D :D B

I'd try just taking one of them out. You definitely want some water movement, you just don't want to overpower the horses. They're fairly difficult to keep as it is, so you want to give them as much of an opportunity to make it as possible. The tank itself looks really good. All your corals...

How long has this been up and running? You might want to remove one or both of the powerheads. Seahorses aren't strong swimmers, and require tanks with very little water movement. For tons of info you can go here. http://www.seahorse.org/ B

t5's are a type of fluorescent lamp. They're thinner, and the High Output versions coupled with and individual reflector per bulb are a more intense lighting system than PC lamps. However they don't make the HO versions in a short enough lamp to fit on most nanos. The ones that Mike has used...

Moving the rockwork is a trick to help break the gramma of being as territorial, because it's territory is disrupted. Adding two fish won't make much difference to help this. B

Apparently you can buy them now as well. B http://nano-reef.com/forums/showthread. ... ht=casette

I posted it in an earlier thread. You can also do a search for the word casette on NC, and get lots of threads/pics. http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/showthr ... sette+tape B

I've had two of them. Mine have been territorial as well, but rarely left their little cave. Rearranging the rockwork a bit when you introduce new fish is a great suggestion to help fight this type of reaction. B