New Setup - AGA 75 Gallon Pre-Drilled
- Thread starter aromano
- Start date
mikeguerrero
Active Member
Andre,
I think we are becomming twins because our tanks and equipment are virtually the same, I dished out major bucks on a Deltec Fluidized reactor to run my Rowaphos.
It was well worth every penny I paid for it as it completely wiped out my phosphate to almost non detectable.
Becareful because Rowaphos is very strong and if you add it too quickly in your reactor you will chance the loss of valuable corals.
Remember I posted about almost losing my beautiful red blastos, well it was because of the sudden loss of phosphate too quickly.
You are suppose to add a phosphate reactor in the beginning so it can control the climb of phosphate; when you add it in the middle like me I cut the phosphates in half over night and placed many of my corals in shock.
Remember corals synthesize phosphates; make sure you go easy when you do it as no one warned me.
Andre, you are approaching the next set of storms, remember you and I are in a hurricane I'm just a little ahead.
Mike
P.S
RedSlime Remover by ultralife is the way to go, just follow the instructions and you'll be fine; I love that product, it did wonders to my tank when I had that darn slime that wouldn't go away.
I think we are becomming twins because our tanks and equipment are virtually the same, I dished out major bucks on a Deltec Fluidized reactor to run my Rowaphos.
It was well worth every penny I paid for it as it completely wiped out my phosphate to almost non detectable.
Becareful because Rowaphos is very strong and if you add it too quickly in your reactor you will chance the loss of valuable corals.
Remember I posted about almost losing my beautiful red blastos, well it was because of the sudden loss of phosphate too quickly.
You are suppose to add a phosphate reactor in the beginning so it can control the climb of phosphate; when you add it in the middle like me I cut the phosphates in half over night and placed many of my corals in shock.
Remember corals synthesize phosphates; make sure you go easy when you do it as no one warned me.
Andre, you are approaching the next set of storms, remember you and I are in a hurricane I'm just a little ahead.
Mike
P.S
RedSlime Remover by ultralife is the way to go, just follow the instructions and you'll be fine; I love that product, it did wonders to my tank when I had that darn slime that wouldn't go away.
aromano
New Member
Mike,
Thanks for the advice and info about the phosphate reactor.
I tested phosphates just now and my test kit is reading 0.3mg/L, but I know w/out a reactor those levels will eventually climb. That's why I wanted to add the reactor now to prevent any major fluctuations. The phosban reactor fills with 130 grams (250ml) to 200 grams (385 ml) of phosban or ROWAphos. I'm thinking of starting with 130 grams (250ml), and running the reactor for a few hours a day until I can gradually increase it to 24/7.
How often do you usually change your media? ROWAphos states that toxic substances are not released back into the aquarium when the media is exhausted, and that there is no need for immediate removal once the media is full. Of course the time frame for media exchange will change depending on the amount of phosphates absorbed, but I wonder what the usual time frame to exhaust the media is.
Thanks for the advice and info about the phosphate reactor.
I tested phosphates just now and my test kit is reading 0.3mg/L, but I know w/out a reactor those levels will eventually climb. That's why I wanted to add the reactor now to prevent any major fluctuations. The phosban reactor fills with 130 grams (250ml) to 200 grams (385 ml) of phosban or ROWAphos. I'm thinking of starting with 130 grams (250ml), and running the reactor for a few hours a day until I can gradually increase it to 24/7.
How often do you usually change your media? ROWAphos states that toxic substances are not released back into the aquarium when the media is exhausted, and that there is no need for immediate removal once the media is full. Of course the time frame for media exchange will change depending on the amount of phosphates absorbed, but I wonder what the usual time frame to exhaust the media is.
aromano
New Member
I am trying to keep up with frequent pruning of my Caulerpa to avoid and interrupt the algae's life cycle, in order to prevent sexual reproduction and massive vegetative die-off. Many experts advice that thinning cuts retain the algae's natural form and is best as Caulerpa fronds are single cells and to cut or break a frond itself can lead to sapping of the entire cell and releasing toxic elements in the water.
The more I read about this topic, the more I think if I should stick with Caulerpa or if I should try other multicellular species such as Spaghetti algae or Gracilaria that are inherently more stable. These algae species are known to be less toxic, more stable and equally fast growing, and they can be cut and pruned with no fear of toxins being released or having vegetative crashes.
The more I read about this topic, the more I think if I should stick with Caulerpa or if I should try other multicellular species such as Spaghetti algae or Gracilaria that are inherently more stable. These algae species are known to be less toxic, more stable and equally fast growing, and they can be cut and pruned with no fear of toxins being released or having vegetative crashes.
Attachments
mikeguerrero
Active Member
Andre,
I haven't changed my Rowaphos since I first set it up, don't know how long ago that was, I'd have to check my thread.
Are you measuring .3 or .03 with Salifert Phosphate test? Because .3 is bad and will start to choke corals.
I tested my phosphates today and I got .03 which is considered good.
I remember my LFS choose how much Rowaphos I would need, it was the smaller on because they rate it per gallons of water, so just double check before you buy.
Mike.
P.S
I have a mixture of macros, mostly cheato, but I have caulerpa, red algae and the algae you have, that stuff does grow. I better double check it this weekend because it has been growing more than the others.
I haven't changed my Rowaphos since I first set it up, don't know how long ago that was, I'd have to check my thread.
Are you measuring .3 or .03 with Salifert Phosphate test? Because .3 is bad and will start to choke corals.
I tested my phosphates today and I got .03 which is considered good.
I remember my LFS choose how much Rowaphos I would need, it was the smaller on because they rate it per gallons of water, so just double check before you buy.
Mike.
P.S
I have a mixture of macros, mostly cheato, but I have caulerpa, red algae and the algae you have, that stuff does grow. I better double check it this weekend because it has been growing more than the others.
aromano
New Member
My test kit measured between 0.025 and 0.05, but as you know Hagen Nutrafin Test Kits are not the most reliable in the market and this is what I currently have for phosphates. I ordered one from Salifert that should be arriving with the phosphate reactor.
I noticed today that the water surface in my sump is full of bubbles and I am assuming is because of the NO-ICH product. I haven't noticed any harm to the corals or fish
I noticed today that the water surface in my sump is full of bubbles and I am assuming is because of the NO-ICH product. I haven't noticed any harm to the corals or fish
mikeguerrero
Active Member
Okay,
.025 and .05 is okay.... if it's in PPM.....
Mike
.025 and .05 is okay.... if it's in PPM.....
Mike
aromano
New Member
Here is a good article about Ferrous Oxide Phosphate Removers, with some interesting charts on the effectiveness of Phosban vs Rowaphos.
Also Ferrous Oxide Phosphate Removers may precipitate some components of the reef tank's buffering system, causing a sudden decline in pH, reflecting a decline in alkalinity as well. Rapid changes in alkalinity have been linked to bleaching in reef tanks.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/ ... review.htm
Did you notice any major fluctuations in PH or Alkalinity when you added the phosphate reactor?
I was wondering if that could be linked with placing your corals in shock over night.
Also Ferrous Oxide Phosphate Removers may precipitate some components of the reef tank's buffering system, causing a sudden decline in pH, reflecting a decline in alkalinity as well. Rapid changes in alkalinity have been linked to bleaching in reef tanks.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/ ... review.htm
Mike,mikeguerrero said:
Did you notice any major fluctuations in PH or Alkalinity when you added the phosphate reactor?
I was wondering if that could be linked with placing your corals in shock over night.
mikeguerrero
Active Member
Andre,
I'm cannot tell you what the PH was or the Alk when I first ran the Rowaphos because I hadn't purchased the Milwaukee controller.
All I can tell you is that my corals did go into shock because I ran it at full blast which you shouldn't do.
Remember what I said about these reactors should start from the get go but if not then run them a little and gradually bring them up.
In reefing moderation is good excessive bad....
Talking about bleaching I wonder if that one of the reasons my pink milli took a dive in the wrong direction.
When I measured all parameters my dKH and Alk were high....
Mike
I'm cannot tell you what the PH was or the Alk when I first ran the Rowaphos because I hadn't purchased the Milwaukee controller.
All I can tell you is that my corals did go into shock because I ran it at full blast which you shouldn't do.
Remember what I said about these reactors should start from the get go but if not then run them a little and gradually bring them up.
In reefing moderation is good excessive bad....
Talking about bleaching I wonder if that one of the reasons my pink milli took a dive in the wrong direction.
When I measured all parameters my dKH and Alk were high....
Mike
aromano
New Member
The NO-ICH medication seemed to work well on all the inhabitants, even the yellow tang that had it really bad, but my 2-liter bottle is almost over and this Thursday it’s going to be two weeks treating the tank.
My blue tang is the only fish that still has ich... I am assuming that the LR that surrounds the area where the tang sleeps must be full of eggs and when they hatch the blue tang is an easy target. After a couple of days when the parasites are well fed, they prepare to drop off from its host, but they wait for night time when the environment is dark and the fish are not active.
Meanwhile, the blue tang prepares for bed time in its favorite hiding spot, where he usually sleeps every night. Now, the parasites leave the fish, encysts, and begin to multiply. Several days go by and the blue tang returns to its same spot at night, only this time there are hundreds of infectious parasites looking out a their favorite victim in the same area; my blue tang ich magnet.
The fish is very active and has an incredible appetite. I even trained him to eat from my hand, and he has no fear to take the food from my fingers. I just know that it will not be an easy task to get this guy out of the tank, and I am starting to consider dismantling the tank and putting him in a hospital tank, because if I don’t it will give a change for the parasites to keep multiplying and eventually every fish will get it bad again. It's my favorite fish with an outstanding personality, and it's a very playful juvenile... It's a shame that it's so vulnerable to ich. :iill
If I could do it all over again, I would have introduced the fish along with a full bottle of NO-ICH from day 1. This product doesn't harm anything and works great as a preventative and taking care of a few parasites, but I waited to long and wasn't sure if it was wise to treat a reef tank with reef safe products and now I am paying the price. :lighting
My blue tang is the only fish that still has ich... I am assuming that the LR that surrounds the area where the tang sleeps must be full of eggs and when they hatch the blue tang is an easy target. After a couple of days when the parasites are well fed, they prepare to drop off from its host, but they wait for night time when the environment is dark and the fish are not active.
Meanwhile, the blue tang prepares for bed time in its favorite hiding spot, where he usually sleeps every night. Now, the parasites leave the fish, encysts, and begin to multiply. Several days go by and the blue tang returns to its same spot at night, only this time there are hundreds of infectious parasites looking out a their favorite victim in the same area; my blue tang ich magnet.
The fish is very active and has an incredible appetite. I even trained him to eat from my hand, and he has no fear to take the food from my fingers. I just know that it will not be an easy task to get this guy out of the tank, and I am starting to consider dismantling the tank and putting him in a hospital tank, because if I don’t it will give a change for the parasites to keep multiplying and eventually every fish will get it bad again. It's my favorite fish with an outstanding personality, and it's a very playful juvenile... It's a shame that it's so vulnerable to ich. :iill
If I could do it all over again, I would have introduced the fish along with a full bottle of NO-ICH from day 1. This product doesn't harm anything and works great as a preventative and taking care of a few parasites, but I waited to long and wasn't sure if it was wise to treat a reef tank with reef safe products and now I am paying the price. :lighting
aromano
New Member
I have two cleaners and one fire shrimp and they've been a tremendous help lately. The fish park at their cleaning station several times a day to get cleaned… Especially my Lyretail Anthias, that just loves to be cleaned all day long. I am going to keep monitoring the situation and when the NO-ICH bottle is over, I'll wait 2-3 days to turn my skimmer back on and gradually go back to normal temperatures.
aromano
New Member
No problem, Sadielynn.
No need for apologies, in fact thanks for your post. Can you imagine if we could remember, or keep track of what every member has in their tanks.
I love those shrimps. They are very social, climb on my hand when I’m cleaning the tank and really do an outstanding job cleaning the fish.
I especially love the fire shrimp; it's just such a beautiful species.
No need for apologies, in fact thanks for your post. Can you imagine if we could remember, or keep track of what every member has in their tanks.
I love those shrimps. They are very social, climb on my hand when I’m cleaning the tank and really do an outstanding job cleaning the fish.
I especially love the fire shrimp; it's just such a beautiful species.
mikeguerrero
Active Member
Andre,
Do not despair, you have done it right. Now it is time to let them fight the virus on their own, do not pull out your Blue Tang, do not dismante everything.
You have to give him a chance to fight the ich on his own now, only the strongest will survive and you gave him that best scenerio to fight.
The key is that he is eating very well and from what I take it, like a piglet. You are correct he will continue to pick up ich more and more like never before since his area is infected.
The strain you see on him is immune to the No ich, if I could trace my words, they would be exactly to what you stated about him going to the same bed and it's all infected.
Just wait, and see if he pulls through, I watched my blue tang reappear with ich very strong after the medication stopped but there was nothing more I could do.
I had med the tank with one full bottle and a quarter of another bottle I had laying around from my 12 gallon cube.
As I fired back up my skimmer it was all up to the tang and look at him today, you've seen his pictures and his movie.
You can only do so much as a reefer, and may I say you have been a good husband, lets see if he'll pull through, I'm willing to bet he's going to make it.
Trust yourself and your fish.... ;-)
Mike G
Do not despair, you have done it right. Now it is time to let them fight the virus on their own, do not pull out your Blue Tang, do not dismante everything.
You have to give him a chance to fight the ich on his own now, only the strongest will survive and you gave him that best scenerio to fight.
The key is that he is eating very well and from what I take it, like a piglet. You are correct he will continue to pick up ich more and more like never before since his area is infected.
The strain you see on him is immune to the No ich, if I could trace my words, they would be exactly to what you stated about him going to the same bed and it's all infected.
Just wait, and see if he pulls through, I watched my blue tang reappear with ich very strong after the medication stopped but there was nothing more I could do.
I had med the tank with one full bottle and a quarter of another bottle I had laying around from my 12 gallon cube.
As I fired back up my skimmer it was all up to the tang and look at him today, you've seen his pictures and his movie.
You can only do so much as a reefer, and may I say you have been a good husband, lets see if he'll pull through, I'm willing to bet he's going to make it.
Trust yourself and your fish.... ;-)
Mike G
aromano
New Member
Mike,
You know what? You are right! I've been doing the best I can for my critters and will continue to do so, but now it's up to the Mother Nature and mr. piglet himself to do their job. It would be a shame if the fish died, but since he's eating so well, even to the point to grab food from my fingers, chances are this little youngster will get through this one. If not, one thing I am certain... I've doing what I can to give all of them a better chance to recover from this.
Thanks for the post man. You made me look at this from a different perspective :thumbup:
You know what? You are right! I've been doing the best I can for my critters and will continue to do so, but now it's up to the Mother Nature and mr. piglet himself to do their job. It would be a shame if the fish died, but since he's eating so well, even to the point to grab food from my fingers, chances are this little youngster will get through this one. If not, one thing I am certain... I've doing what I can to give all of them a better chance to recover from this.
Thanks for the post man. You made me look at this from a different perspective :thumbup:
aromano
New Member
I've been running the phosphate reactor with 120ml of ROWAPHOS for about 10 days now, and gradually increased it's running time for over a week, until I felt comfortable running it constantly. Today I added a second reactor with 250ml of carbon to the filtration system.
I have to say that all my fish improved 95% from the ich epidemic and if it wasn't for the NO-ICH medicine along with heavy feeding, adding garlic extract to their food and increasing the temperature, these guys would be dead by now. The ich does come in waves, but now there are no visible signs of parasites in any fish, except for the blue tang with only one or two on each side. I have to say that this is the first time I have a reef safe medication help me get an epidemic under control, and I thank you so much Mike to guide me through this one with flawless valuable information.
This chapter is not over yet, but since the NO-ICH bottle finished at the beginning of the week, I'm already running the protein skimmer and slowly bringing the temperature to normal through the days. Today I changed 15 gallons of water, which I carefully adjusted the temperature, salinity and pH to match the tanks water, and I am continuing to feed heavily with a variety of foods soaked with garlic extract three to four times a day.
Here is an updated full shot from the tank. It's a bit green from the nuisance algae bloom, but I have to say that it's 100% better than about a month ago.
The phosphate reactor and the tangs have been helping a lot to keep it under control.
I have to say that all my fish improved 95% from the ich epidemic and if it wasn't for the NO-ICH medicine along with heavy feeding, adding garlic extract to their food and increasing the temperature, these guys would be dead by now. The ich does come in waves, but now there are no visible signs of parasites in any fish, except for the blue tang with only one or two on each side. I have to say that this is the first time I have a reef safe medication help me get an epidemic under control, and I thank you so much Mike to guide me through this one with flawless valuable information.
This chapter is not over yet, but since the NO-ICH bottle finished at the beginning of the week, I'm already running the protein skimmer and slowly bringing the temperature to normal through the days. Today I changed 15 gallons of water, which I carefully adjusted the temperature, salinity and pH to match the tanks water, and I am continuing to feed heavily with a variety of foods soaked with garlic extract three to four times a day.
Here is an updated full shot from the tank. It's a bit green from the nuisance algae bloom, but I have to say that it's 100% better than about a month ago.
The phosphate reactor and the tangs have been helping a lot to keep it under control.
mikeguerrero
Active Member
Andre,
Congratualations on your dedication and perserverance through the ich epidemic, it's the husbandry that also saved their little tails. Be on the safe side, from time to time keep an eye on that ich as mine came back when I failed to quarantine the Powder blue.
I was taking a look at your two new reactors, I love them. I especially dig the way you placed them hanging on your sump and the way you connected two cool looking shut/valves.
Makes that filtration engine look even more powerful, I love it. I believe I also placed in 120 ml of rowaphos, I'm glad you took it slow, it could've taken out some corals if you had gone fast.
Thats also cool that you incorporated the carbon as well, I have mine in my return filter sock to the skimmer as I ran out of space for another reactor. I know of other Deltec users that place both the rowaphos and carbon together in the same reactor since the rowaphos is lighter it fluidizes on top of the carbon.
For now I'm okay, because I need the carbon in the filter sock for extra security on the Ozone that is soon to come.
Andre your tank looks just like mine when I was going through the phosphate trouble, and all I can say is that the rowaphos and my 7 tangs kicked the algaes butt all the way.
Take a look at this pic I took just the other day, close up view of the live rock show how well the tangs and rowaphos work:
I particularily like your school of yumas, your neon open brain and your colony of xenias; man you could hecka afford to frag plenty of those super healthy xenias... I'm surprised you haven't been approached by DJconn he loves nice frags...
Mike G
Congratualations on your dedication and perserverance through the ich epidemic, it's the husbandry that also saved their little tails. Be on the safe side, from time to time keep an eye on that ich as mine came back when I failed to quarantine the Powder blue.
I was taking a look at your two new reactors, I love them. I especially dig the way you placed them hanging on your sump and the way you connected two cool looking shut/valves.
Makes that filtration engine look even more powerful, I love it. I believe I also placed in 120 ml of rowaphos, I'm glad you took it slow, it could've taken out some corals if you had gone fast.
Thats also cool that you incorporated the carbon as well, I have mine in my return filter sock to the skimmer as I ran out of space for another reactor. I know of other Deltec users that place both the rowaphos and carbon together in the same reactor since the rowaphos is lighter it fluidizes on top of the carbon.
For now I'm okay, because I need the carbon in the filter sock for extra security on the Ozone that is soon to come.
Andre your tank looks just like mine when I was going through the phosphate trouble, and all I can say is that the rowaphos and my 7 tangs kicked the algaes butt all the way.
Take a look at this pic I took just the other day, close up view of the live rock show how well the tangs and rowaphos work:
I particularily like your school of yumas, your neon open brain and your colony of xenias; man you could hecka afford to frag plenty of those super healthy xenias... I'm surprised you haven't been approached by DJconn he loves nice frags...
Mike G
aromano
New Member
Mike,
Thanks so much for the comments and all the feedback. Your tank is looking better than ever and IMHO is an example of what a cleaned and well balanced environment should look like. After I installed the phosphate reactor I noticed I had just the perfect place for another one, so I decided to add the carbon reactor.
I constantly have to frag those xenias, as they keep on moving to the overflow box.
Recently I moved the LR they are on a bit further to avoid that since they reproduce so often. It’s amazing how some corals reproduce when they like their environment.
I'm not sure and I could be wrong, but I have a strong feeling that even if you had quarantined the powder blue tang prior to introducing the fish to the main tank, there is a big chance he might have gotten traces of ich after being transferred from the quarantine to the main display.
I came across a very interesting article from FishVet, that explains this phenomenon really well.
"The Hobbyist will have a tank with several specimens all of which are free of any signs of the parasite. A new fish will be introduced & the following day, "white spots" will be observed in a great many cases, NOT on the new introduction, but on one of established inhabitants. This happened so often so years ago, that we made some experiments on apparently "disease free fish" (specifically Powder Blue Tangs and Yellow tangs).
When we took skin scrapings from these fish that had been healthy for more than a year we found evidence of trophonts under the skin. Evidently these had not found it necessary to reproduce & leave the fish, as no sign of disease had occurred over a long period of time
With this evidence we explained the phenomena just mentioned as follows:
A parasite by definition has a vested interest in co-existing with its host. As long as no unusual disturbance takes place, it will continue its idyllic existence, in harmony with its host. However when a new specimen is introduced to the Aquarium, often the established inhabitants become quite excited, feeling that the newcomer will in some way, take their "space", eat their food, or even team up with their favorite fish/companion. This causes some form of chemical message to course its way through the fishes system, in much the same way, as adrenalin causes us, to become excited if we become frightened. This chemical message, in some way alerts the parasite, which in effect says to itself, "Oh boy!, maybe I should get out from here, & look for a new host". The consequences are seen the next day, when it bores out from the host, leaving the telltale white spots."
The important thing as you've mentioned if that he's eating well, co-existing in harmony with the other tankmates, and showing no signs of stress. Hopefully the waves of the parasites will gradually get weaker and weaker until it's beyond of the point of concern.
P.S. I think I am going to order a new bottle of NO-ICH to keep it in the closet, since this product in not available in any LFS around here. It's good idea to have it available for immediate treatment if the situation gets out of control.
Thanks so much for the comments and all the feedback. Your tank is looking better than ever and IMHO is an example of what a cleaned and well balanced environment should look like. After I installed the phosphate reactor I noticed I had just the perfect place for another one, so I decided to add the carbon reactor.
I constantly have to frag those xenias, as they keep on moving to the overflow box.
Recently I moved the LR they are on a bit further to avoid that since they reproduce so often. It’s amazing how some corals reproduce when they like their environment.
I'm not sure and I could be wrong, but I have a strong feeling that even if you had quarantined the powder blue tang prior to introducing the fish to the main tank, there is a big chance he might have gotten traces of ich after being transferred from the quarantine to the main display.
I came across a very interesting article from FishVet, that explains this phenomenon really well.
"The Hobbyist will have a tank with several specimens all of which are free of any signs of the parasite. A new fish will be introduced & the following day, "white spots" will be observed in a great many cases, NOT on the new introduction, but on one of established inhabitants. This happened so often so years ago, that we made some experiments on apparently "disease free fish" (specifically Powder Blue Tangs and Yellow tangs).
When we took skin scrapings from these fish that had been healthy for more than a year we found evidence of trophonts under the skin. Evidently these had not found it necessary to reproduce & leave the fish, as no sign of disease had occurred over a long period of time
With this evidence we explained the phenomena just mentioned as follows:
A parasite by definition has a vested interest in co-existing with its host. As long as no unusual disturbance takes place, it will continue its idyllic existence, in harmony with its host. However when a new specimen is introduced to the Aquarium, often the established inhabitants become quite excited, feeling that the newcomer will in some way, take their "space", eat their food, or even team up with their favorite fish/companion. This causes some form of chemical message to course its way through the fishes system, in much the same way, as adrenalin causes us, to become excited if we become frightened. This chemical message, in some way alerts the parasite, which in effect says to itself, "Oh boy!, maybe I should get out from here, & look for a new host". The consequences are seen the next day, when it bores out from the host, leaving the telltale white spots."
The important thing as you've mentioned if that he's eating well, co-existing in harmony with the other tankmates, and showing no signs of stress. Hopefully the waves of the parasites will gradually get weaker and weaker until it's beyond of the point of concern.
P.S. I think I am going to order a new bottle of NO-ICH to keep it in the closet, since this product in not available in any LFS around here. It's good idea to have it available for immediate treatment if the situation gets out of control.