New Setup - AGA 75 Gallon Pre-Drilled

djconn

New Member
Man, out been out of the loop for awhile and all I can say is HOLY COW! :shock:

This tank and setup is amazing. Thanks for documenting all of this for everyone to see. This is a really neat project you've got here Andre. Thanks for sharing...
 

aromano

New Member
DJ,

Thx so much for the compliments, I really appreciate it.
Even though there are always some battles when setting up new tanks, this project has been a lot of fun and reefkeeping has become a way of life for me. I love this hobby and I am trying my best to provide a good environment for my critters.

Mike,

I received a 2 liter bottle of NO-ICH yesterday, turned off my skimmer and removed the chemi-pure. My tank can hold approximately 50 gallons of water allowing for all the LR and SB, so I’ve been adding 100ml of the medication per day. I set the reefkeeper to control the temperature between 80 - 81 degrees and I am planning to increase it even more to 83 - 84 in the next two to three days. The fish were a lot more active today and everybody is eating really well, the blue tang being the most aggressive eater and dominant fish in the tank. All the fish greatly accept the cleaning services from the shrimps and I am crossing my fingers that this chapter will have a happy ending for everyone.

The only fish that doesn’t accept prepared foods is the yellow tang and he’s the one with the most white spots on his body. I added some green Gracillaria algae the other day, but all this guy eats is the nuisance algae from the rocks, which is another issue I’ve been battling lately. The new LR that was introduced in the tank is adding a substantial amount of nutrients in the water and feeding the algae... I added two Black Sea Urchins about two weeks ago, which are doing a tremendous job eating this stuff along with the tangs.

Refugium Specs:

My refugium measures W23.5â€
 

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mikeguerrero

Active Member
Andre,

Thanks for laying out the detail on your tank. I can honestly tell you that our tanks are almost identical in how we started them and documented their evolution.

In having almost identical equipment and corals and critters we have also been plaqued by nuissance algae, diatoms and ich at around the same time.

I'm a couple of months ahead of you so I've been hit first; it's almost as if we have two identical boats that are going through a hurricane at different days, I happen to be at the eye of the storm as you entered the beginning.

Winning the battle on ich first comes with proper feeding and I mean fatten them up, as I've heard and from experience it helps them so much as the immune system is maintained; my blue tang was the one that was hit hard and he never stopped feeding.

I listed for you the foods that my LFS recommended so I won't list them again here. Next step is to raise the temp in your tank, you are doing it correctly; gradualy get up to 83-84.

This will allow the ich to cycle through it's stages sooner and thus giving the NO ICH the best chance to keep the ich from becomming an epidemic.

Having the NO-ich pair up with max feeding and higher temps slows it down; you should see the ich come less and less during the dosing.

I dozed for almost two weeks and I noticed that the strain got less and less as my fish were showing less white spots on every other day.

I even purchased cleaner shrimp two of them and one red blood shrimp; which they have been seen cleaning during the outbreak; so I'm glad you tackled this problem from all angles.

Just make sure you completely follow through with No ich, don't stop it because you see the fish already cured, I went through my entire bottle making sure I would erradicate as much ich as possible.

Remember to keep chemi-pure out and the skimmer off during this critical period. Keep on eye on that skimmer as when you fire it back on it's going to go mad skimming and you'll need to be present to empty the cup many many times; do this on a weekend when you are home.

Regarding your fuge, it seems you are growing your macros correctly but I had no positive results with that fuge light over mine.

I quickly realized after much research on the net that my spectrum of light was off and my water within the sump was rushing through too quickly.

I purchased a 75 watt bulb at 2,700K from Home Depot for only 9 dollars and another 5 bucks for the clamp.

The bulb only draws 19 watts of energy, the savings are great and my macro just went crazy pulling out excessive amounts of nitrate that was hurting my tank.

Now since you have the same light as me if you want to increase the potential of your fuge remove those 10,000 k bulbs and replace them with the coralife 6,700 k bulbs; this spectrum is way better than the 10K ones, trust me on this.

Even though I'm using the 2,700k bulb and getting great results there is a better bulb same price but at 5,100k. I just haven't been able to order it yet.

This bulb came from the research that Melvev over at RC did; and it works as you can see.

Here are some pics of the fuge light I got and where I placed it in my sump.

Mike G











 

reefman23

New Member
Andre, great setup! Really nice pics too. You and Mike are really giving alot of us something to stive for (some day).

One thing....have you considered using a site such as www.photobucket.com to host your pics on? All you do is register for free, upload youu images, then just copy and paste the link to you nanotank.com post. This way you can include more photos, larger photos, and high quality photos in your thread.

Just a suggestion.


jesse
 

aromano

New Member
Mike,

Thank you so much for your post. We do have very similar setups and thanks to you, who recently had to deal with a lot of these issues, your feedback has been an tremendous help guiding me through this hurricane :)

I can already see improvements from all the fish especially the tangs, which now have been more active than ever and most of the visible spots are almost gone. I plan to stick with the treatment all the way through the end and try to eradicate as much of the parasites as possible. All the fish are eating vigoursly and even though this is not even near the end, this product within three days has given all the fish a big relief and a change to increase their disposition with less parasites attached to their bodies, bust their immune system and have a better chance to keep fighting. I also added a blood fire shrimp today, which is a beautiful species and also will contribute with the overall maintenance the tank.

You got me curious today about the fuge light and when I went to check I noticed that my coralife has two 9W – 6700K bulbs. I had ordered the freshwater version of the light, but hadn’t realized that even though it has the same wattage, it has a different spectrum from the satwater model. (I attached a picture taken from my fuge this afternoon)

That 75 watt bulb at 2,700K was a nice purchase for a bargain price and now your fuge is definitely going to take off with a lower spectrum. The benefits from the nutrient export and nitrate absorption provided by macro algae can have outstanding results.

P.S. Soon I’ll be making a page for the tank in my website where larger images will be posted with periodically.
Thanks for the compliment and the tip Reefman. Very good idea :)
I'll make sure to include a decent full size shot for you Sadielynn.

Current Water Parameters

PH 7.9 - 8.1
Salinity 1.023
Ammonia 0.0 mg/l
Nitrite 0.0 mg/l
Nitrate 5.0 mg/l
Phosphate 0.25 mg/l
Calcium 520 ppm
Alkalinity 2.74 meq/L
KH 7.7 dKH
Temperature 81.5 – 82.5
 

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mikeguerrero

Active Member
Andre,

I'm really happy that the No-ich is working in your tank; it had positive results in my reef.

I'm also happy that you ended up placing the freshwater version of our lights in your fuge, that is one reason your macros took off and mine didn't.

10K is not in my honest opinion for macros as I quickly learned. I will be ordering the 51k bulb real soon as I know it's the best for my setup. In the meantime the 27k is working good.

My PH will not drop below 8.0 at all during the entire night, before with my old lights it would fall to 7.8.

In fact my macros are growing so well, I"m seeing my PH climb to 8.1 in the night.

The really neat thing about this particular bulb is that it puts out 75 watts of power over my macros but only cost me 19 watts in price; can't beat that.

Mike G
 

aromano

New Member
PH is one things that I would like to be able to monitor with a pin point device instead of test kits, which most times are quite hard to read the color charts with accuracy. I contacted Scott from digital aquatics and he told me that I’m still on my 30 day trial period and that I can get a replacement for a Reefkeeper 2 unit, which comes with a PH monitor and control along with some other valuable upgrades that would definitely come in handy and well worth the price difference.

The unit comes out sometime in February, and I have until the 3rd of January to send mine in. The only issue that this is critical week for me to keep controlling the temperature at 83-84 degrees and my heater thermostat in not near as accurate as the controller. Most likely I'll end up doing it, just not sure how long I will be w/out a controller until the next unit finally ships out.
 

mikeguerrero

Active Member
Andre,

If you can get the Reefkeeper 2 get it, because being able to read PH is critical, the test kits blow bad in this department.

If you don't upgrade the reefkeeper, I would recommend the SMS122 PH Milwaukee controller. I own it and it's affordable and controls my Milwaukee regulator for C02.

If you don't already have a calcium reactor, you will in the future and this controller is great.

I'm considering getting the ORP controller next as I'm looking into adding Ozone to my skimmer...

Mike G
 

skipm

Moderator
Staff member
FWIW if you must use a test kit for testing pH I found that the Salifert kit was the easiest to read, all of the others seemed to have colors that are just to close to each other to get an accurate reading.
 

aromano

New Member
I am definitely going to send my unit in to get a replacement for a ReefKeeper 2 unit and I'm glad that the upgraded version came out while I was still in the 30 day trial. I just hope that it really ships in February, so I won't be w/out a controller for too long.

Just like anything there is always a trade off with heavy feeding, along with running the tank w/out a skimmer for a couple of days, so now I'm starting to see minor signs of cyano bacteria in my SB and in the fuge as well.

Since I'm using NO-ICH I won't add any other chemicals to the water, but once the treatment is over most likely I'll have to use Red Slime Remover, along w/ a 20% water change and heavy skimming in order to get rid it.

The ich comes and goes as I expected and hopefully this chapter will be over before things start to get out of hand. I can't wait to get back to normal temperatures, skimming, water changes, ect... :)

P.S. I also like the Salifert Test Kits, and that's what I use for KH/Alkalinity and Calcium, but due to the recent rise of the Euro against the Dollar, the costs of their products has been greatly increased.
 

mikeguerrero

Active Member
Andre,

I use the PH test kit by Salifert up untill I got my probe. The salifert colors are indeed better than other brands that are difficult to read.

Mike
 

aromano

New Member
Indeed the Salifert test kits are the best in the market and I love the accuracy of the KH/Alkalinity and Calcium kits I currently have.

I noticed today that my sea urchins are eating not only nuisance algae, but also tearing a lot of my coralline algae and leaving large white patches in my LR. I'm considering removing these guys and sticking with more gentle algae eaters to prevent this from happening. I did try to remove one of them once I spotted on of them on top of my green mushroom colony LR today, but these guys are extremely strong I have to find a better method to detach them from the LR and take them back to my LFS.
 

mikeguerrero

Active Member
Andre,

My advice to you on urchins is get rid of them or place maybe one in your sump. I had a urchin that came as a hitchhiker way back when I first set up my 12 gallon cube.

He always ate my coraline and many said he would die because there isn't enough coraline for him, well he lived and made it to my 72 gallon.

Urchins help spread coraline all over your rocks because they break the coraline and re seed it to new locations.

I did notice that he did spread it but as they grow they knock over my corals and it got really bad; and I pulled him out and placed him in my sump.

My sump has a lot of rubble and macros so if he holds here good for him... if not oh well....

Mike
 

aromano

New Member
I’m definitely going to remove them, since they're large urchins and are starting to cause some trouble. I'll put on my thick rubber gloves when I get home and try to detach them from the LR w/out hurting the urchin, since these guys are very strong and hard to handle. Most likely I'll be taking a trip my LFS tonight to return the urchins, so if possible I'd appreciate some advice about this thread I wrote about "An Attempt to Save a Scooter Blenny"... I rescued the blenny from a friend yesterday, but I might take him back along w/ the urchins tonight. I am fighting ich along with some other issues that commonly arise when setting up new systems and my tank isn't really large or mature enough for this guy.

Here is the link:
http://www.nanotank.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2524

Is it worth the effort trying to help this guy out, or should I just take him back to the LFS and hope he'll get lucky and be picked by someone w/ a larger established tank?
 

mikeguerrero

Active Member
Don't try to manage more than your plate can handle.... At a later time when things are stable you'll be able to assist others....

It's like the proverb says: Don't let a blind man lead a blind man....

Mike
 

mikeguerrero

Active Member
Andre,

Are you getting good or excellent growth out of your macros with your current light? I'm ready to switch back to this fixture but with the proper lights not the 10,000 K they are no good for macros...

If you read my thread under refugium you'll see my current setup disperses light everywhere and my return lines started gettting algae growth.

It's not worth it to me, the great macro growth but light everywhere in the cabinet...


Mike
 

aromano

New Member
Very true Mike,

I'm actually on my way to the LFS w/ two Sea Urchins and the Scooter Blenny.

My macros pretty much doubled their size since I started growing them about a month ago and even though my Caulerpa goes through vegetative die-offs and I need to keep pruning them every now and then, IMO I am getting good growth w/ my current setup. You might want to try a different strategy and see what happens and if anything you can always go back to your current light. We have preety much the same size sump with the same Coralife fixture, the only difference being the flow rate. Most likely your macros will do just fine with the 6700K bulbs. I think it's definitely worth the shot.
 

aromano

New Member
I ordered a new member to my filtration work force today. Next week I shold be receiving a phosban reactor with some ROWAphos media to try to taco the nuisance algae growth from all angles.

The reactor should help me keep the phostate levels low and hopefully with time my macros will slowly exhaust the nuisance algae nutrient supply. I'll be using a Rio 180, which should give me about 80GPH to 90GPH w/ the head loss of 1 foot. I also ordered some ultralife red slime remover, just in case if the cyano bacteria starts to get out of hand.

Today I registered with photobuckt and this is a test to see how the images display in nanotank.
Soon I'll be posting new images to keep documenting the progress of my 75 gallon reef experience.



Reefman and Sadielynn: Thanks for letting me know about photobuckt.com. Now I can share lager images with all of you guys. :thumbup:
 
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