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Yes and no. Things get a bit interesting but the reason why you'll see the high and low ends of the 'rule' is due to the different densities between good and not so good live rock. Surface area is great but that isn't what makes live rock worth the money we spend on it, well not entirely. The...

Don't forget to blow out the rocks from time to time as well.

The reason is that the 'liquid' that the food is in is actually full of nutrients which will add to any nitrate problem. Some have preservatives and may contain phosphate that will accumulate in the system. Basically it's about controlling what goes into your system. All you need to do is put...

Glad I could help Dave. Generally they're harmless and will eat up any stray food but keep an eye out for their numbers, etc.

There is alot of pros and cons for each side and a balancing act overall. I run a Tunze on my 12g and wouldn't go without but I could. It's a tool and to each their own but as Cris said water changes should be taking care of it. Just to add, what are you feeding? Frozen if not rinsed can...

There are many options to do this but imo you should be getting to it at the source. If it can't decay it can't go through the cycle and you shouldn't end up with a high level of nitrates. Do you run polyfiber, carbon, and a skimmer? I know it's not the answer you're looking for but I'm...

One persons prized coral is another's pest. Just for example my wife likes the look of glass anemones but there is no way I'd put one in my tank for her. You do make a good point, don't kill what you don't know. It may be a good thing to have around and that's why an ID is so important.

It's a trim of the lips; You'd be better off with a rotary tool as you'd get nice clean cuts.

While you try to get that camera have a look around for ball anemone's (corynactis). Here's a rose ball anemone; (note, that is sugar sand)

Sorry it took so long for me to get to this post but here's my take. The Sapphire skimmer is about mid to lower mid level. Some still have problems with micro bubbles escaping the body and making their way into your display. The design is still being modified so in a few more revisions it may be...

Here's a replacement; http://www.nanotuners.com/product_info. ... ucts_id=67 but really I'd go; http://www.nanotuners.com/product_info. ... cts_id=230 or upgrade for a few bucks more to; http://www.nanotuners.com/product_info. ... cts_id=254

Solaris has three models now; the G last year, then H4, and now the I4. They still have a few kinks to work out so I suspect that there will be a few more models yet. Not a bad unit but what they don't show you is the huge LED driver box.

Evaporation will increase your sg, not lower it. When water evaporates only pure H2O is evaporated and the salt left behind. If you ever get salt spray you'll see this in action. The reason for water changes are to replace the trace elements and such as well as to remove waste in the water...

I didn't mean to imply that it was nudis, just that they are one thing off the top of my head that are known to eat montis. The nudis are a whiteish grey so it probably isn't the black dots but look around as they may be the cause of the decline. The dots could be anything but check if they...

Are the black dots moving? What are your levels, including Mg? There are some monti eating nudis and some fish will nip at them but I'd need a better description to give an ID 100%

I feed twice a day personally. Once a day is 'fine' but twice is better. Feeding them only once every few days will slow down their metabolism and perhaps stress the fish. There may also be nipping at corals from fish that have the predisposition to do so. By feeding them daily with a variety of...

I'd look into some good test kits for individual readings. If one kit goes bad you can isolate it and get one new kit. Just stop using tap water and do some water changes. They will help ease the problem while you figure out what is wrong. Buy the test kits and test your tank as well as the...

Ok, more possibly useless tidbit time. There are a few reasons why we want a spike in the beginning of the tanks life; to control when it happens so it doesn't happen later, To maximize our biofilteration capacity, and simply because we're told to. Basicly we cause the spike in the...

Oh I forgot to mention that you shouldn't use tap water, ever. Your system is a closed ecosystem and what goes in will simply accumulate until you start having problems. Tap water is a ticking time bomb, sometimes there are duds but most of the time they go off causing more problems then you'd...

You're using CaCo3 to measure alk so the numbers you see around may seem odd as most use dKH. Currently you're sitting at 240 CaCo3, 4.8 meq/L, or 13.41 dKH depending on how you want to read it. Your alk should be 143.2 - 179 CaCo3, 2.86 - 3.57 meq/L, or 8-10dKH. Test your calcium and...