will a 7 watt daylight be ok in a .75 gallon for softies?
- Thread starter Karita
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nanoaddict
New Member
I would think it would be sufficient in a tank that small. If you stock the tank pretty full, you should probably consider upgrading to a 13W or more. Hope that helps.
Flame Angel
New Member
Actually, wiz, I've kept a setup exactly like that before. As long as you mark off the water level when you first fill it, and make sure it stays at that water level, keeping the salinity constant isn't a problem. As for the other water parameters...you just have to be careful. Don't put anything in there that's going to poo and cause a bunch of nitrate, nitrite or ammonia problems, and make sure nothing dies, and you're golden.
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Flame Angel
New Member
It'll work, but you'd be much better off going with a 13w 50/50, like I showed you in your other post. Good luck with it all, btw, and be sure to keep us posted.
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I want to do that too
So the stock lighting that comes with it, is 7 watts, and if you want the 13 watts 50/50, is it as simple as putting in a new bulb and it'll fit or will be like a fire hazard? Is it just buying a seperate light that hangs on it and you just remove the stock? Curious...
As far the fish I'd put in there, I know it wouldn't be a blenny. The blenny i have in my nano, he's a big eater on algae all over the tank, and he's like a non-stop 24/7 eater, which also means he's producing poo like you wouldn't believe. That booger has me on my toes cleaning up after him.
I would guess a small shrimp would be cool, like a pet cleaner shrimp and a damsel if I wanted to see something swimming around beside the sights of a few corals.
So the stock lighting that comes with it, is 7 watts, and if you want the 13 watts 50/50, is it as simple as putting in a new bulb and it'll fit or will be like a fire hazard? Is it just buying a seperate light that hangs on it and you just remove the stock? Curious...
As far the fish I'd put in there, I know it wouldn't be a blenny. The blenny i have in my nano, he's a big eater on algae all over the tank, and he's like a non-stop 24/7 eater, which also means he's producing poo like you wouldn't believe. That booger has me on my toes cleaning up after him.
I would guess a small shrimp would be cool, like a pet cleaner shrimp and a damsel if I wanted to see something swimming around beside the sights of a few corals.
djconn
New Member
The acclimation process would only be for the lighting and heat issues. Hopefully the lighting would be sufficient and your tank temps would be in the 74-78 degree range with minimal temperature swings.
The coral themselves shouldn't notice that they are in a smaller tank. Water quality and lighting are the two major issues with a tank that small. My 5.5 gal has 64 total PC watts which is more than enough and my corals are doing great.
The coral themselves shouldn't notice that they are in a smaller tank. Water quality and lighting are the two major issues with a tank that small. My 5.5 gal has 64 total PC watts which is more than enough and my corals are doing great.
This is taken from another post of mine from earlier. This will work for your 5g tank fairly well. For a .75 gal tank all your corals will be very small frags anyway so I'd try to do the same just on a smaller scale.Trogdor said:
Now let's talk about acclimation procedures....Lots of folks make the switch from fresh water to salt water, and so they have the idea that floating a bag for 20mins-hour and then releasing the new critter is the correct way to acclimate them. This may work 90% of the time for freshwater, but you've got more chemical balances to worry about with saltwater, and it's simply not an acceptable way to acclimate your new purchases. When you do a float and release, all you're acclimating your new critter to is temp. What about salinity, and ph for critters? Big swings in these can kill them very quickly. If it doesn't kill them immediately it can add to their stress levels, which are already high from being caught out of the tank in the LFS and put in a bag, etc... When you're talking about corals, you have salinty, ph, calcium, lighting, etc.. to consider as well. This is why some corals don't open for a day or so when they're added to a new tank. I will tell you that I HAVE floated and released corals and even fish/inverts when I was in a hurry, but at least I knew I was running a risk.
So here's what you do. Get a length of airline tubing that's long enough to go from the top of your nano to a bowl big enough for your new purchase sitting next to it, but lower than the surface. You put the airline in the tank, the other end should have a small plastic valve on it like these.
http://www.petdiscounters.com/customer/ ... 315&page=1
You can ususually find these anywhere that carries fish or airline tubing.
You dump your new critter, and as little water as will cover it in the bowl.
Start a siphon from your tank dripping through the airline tubing into the bowl. Use the valve to adjust the flow so that you're getting at most a couple drops per second.
That's it. You may want to nearly fill the bowl, empty most of it back into the nano and repeat the process again before dumping the new guy into the tank. I usually do the first batch of water pretty slowly, then do the 2nd run at a much faster drip rate. This will give the new addition time to acclimate to ALL of your tanks parameters.
MushromMan
New Member
Re: I want to do that too
I am currently in the process of a total DIY on a ten gal, and opted for 6 of these. I have already tested the setup, and it works well! Hope that helps...
One option would be to pick up a 20 watt NO flourescent ballast at home depot. They go for $3.50 (the only one that price) made by Advance. You can use that ballast to run one 13w Compact Fl.dragon79 said:
I am currently in the process of a total DIY on a ten gal, and opted for 6 of these. I have already tested the setup, and it works well! Hope that helps...