Tank Update

[Sea_Dawg]

My tank hasn't had anything added to it yet...it has been a long time but I wanted to wait till my birthday to get test kits, just so I could be 100% sure everything was good. This is what came out:
pH->8.0
Ammonia->0
Nitrite->0
Nitrate->10-0

So I assume those are good reading, right? Should I do a water change before I get any livestock? Change/Wash out the filter pads?

What type of livestock should I start with? And finally I have these pill bug type things all around the tank, I tried researching them but didn't find much. Anyone have any ideas?

I just thought I would also say the reason I haven't really been around lately is because we now have dial-up...lol. But I am sure to be around a lot more now that my tank is starting to gain some progress. Thanks in advance,
Ben

 

[sadielynn]

How long have you been cycling ?
your readings are good for you to start adding your basics now try to bump that ph up to 8.2-8.4 should be good ....
I would recommend changing out the filter pads to new. As for the water change you could do a 20% now or add something if you wish and once you acclimate them place them into the tank and use that as your water change ......the pill bug leads me to believe that they may be ISOPODS bad very bad
http://www.nanotank.com/forum/viewtopic ... ight=#8594
http://www.nanotank.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2685
with out a pic it is hard to say for sure however the above links may help you rule them out . I am more inclined to say perhaps just pods....
The first things that you will want to add would be your cleaning crew hermits snails and perhaps a shrimp ... :mrgreen:

 

[ripcurrent]

Params are looking good. I'd recommend doing a water change before putting anything in the tank... I cant think of a single instance where clean fresh water isn't a positive thing... well unless your drowning in it but we'll save that conversation for another day. :mrgreen:

 

[Sea_Dawg]

I have been cycling the tank since the end of January. I know thats a VERY long time, but I wanted to get the ktis to be sure it was good, and incase of future issues. The "pillbugs" in my tank are whitish cream, and some of them have patches of color that look very similar to coraline algae. Some also have appendages that stick out from thier back. I read that if they roll into a ball then they are mostlikley safe. The ones I have seem to be attempting to roll up when agitated, but its not a very convincing ball. Since they have been in the tank for such a long period of time with no fish to feed off of it causes me to think they are feeding off of something else such as algae. Does that help any?

 

[Jennie]

The params of the tank look like you are ready for the clean up crew! The pill bugs you are describing are most likely pods, a good sign for your tank!

 

[skipm]

I have to agree that they bugs sound more like pods, especially since they have been in the tank for such a long time without any fish to feed off of which isopods would need.
Change out or rinse the filter pads and do a water change and I think you are ready to start adding a few critters. Start off with some cleaners and remember to allow the tank to stabilize for a week or so before making any more additions, this gives the biological bed time to readjust to the added load between additions. Let us know what you end up adding.

 

[Sea_Dawg]

Since the bugs are most likely pods I will just ignore them...

A few days ago I cleaned out the filter, tossing the carbon but keeping the sponge. I will be getting new carbon soon. I will most likely be getting some new inhabitants this weekend or the next, what type/number of hermit crabs and snails should I start with? Will I need to supply them with anyfood? What types of food do you all recomend? I do have frozen mysis shrimp, will that work for the time being?

I will be doing my first water change soon so I also have some questions about that...

Can I use the python hose that I use for my freshwater tanks for emptying water on my saltwater tank?
Does the water need to be the same temperature when adding if I am just going to be having snails and hermit crabs for the time being?
When I eventually have corals is it OK if they go above the waters suface during water changes?

And finally just a few more miscellaneous questions...
Does the topoff water need to be the same temperature as the tank water?
How many hours of light a day should I have?

Well sorry for all the questions, there will be more to come haha. Thanks in advance,
Ben

 

[reefman23]

Lets see, Ill start at the top.

First thing, just make sure you are rinsing the sponge completely clean every few days. You'll want to thouroughly rinse the carbon too before you add it to the tank (you might already know this stuff, but just want to be sure!).

I personally like a small (or no) cleanup crew, so I would say just a couple blue-leg hermits and a tonga nassarius snail or two, and one or two ceriths and/or nerite snails. You wont need to supply them with any food... they should be able to find everything they need in the LR/LS.

You can use the python to drain the water out of your tank. When you are doing a water change, you should try your best to match the temp as well as the pH/Alk. Most corals do fine out of the water, even for an extended time. This is especially true for the shallower water corals that are often exposed for up to a couple hours a day in nature. Be careful with zoanthids, though, as they release some sort of toxin that can irritate your sensitive skin/eyes.

Your topoff water doesnt need to be the same temp as the tank water. Again, try to match the pH/Alk of your tank. If you are using R/O water for your water changes/topoffs, make sure to add buffer to it to raise the pH/Alk to the proper levels.

Lights should be ran between 8-12 hrs a day. Try to get a timer...you'll corals will get used to the cycle. My xenias as well as a couple other corals know when it is about time for the lights to go off and will close about 20 minutes beforehand.

Hope that helps.

Jesse

 

[Sea_Dawg]

Thanks for all the help!

I just have two more questions for now...
When rinsing out the sponge can I use tap water?
What can I use as a buffer?

 

[Jennie]

When you rinse out the sponge, use old tank water, not tap water.

For buffers, here's Kent's

http://www.kentmarine.com/saltwater/sal ... ffers.html

 

[Sea_Dawg]

Thanks for all the great help!!!

I haven't yet got anything for the tanks....but I will be getting something soon. But for now I have a few more questions...

For buffers can I just add some to gallon of RO water and continuously use that until it runs out??? As for water changes will the salt mixture automtically adjust the water to the right parameters?

And finally what buffers do you use?

One again thanks!!!

 

[reefman23]

I alays treat the tank with a buffer to get it where is should be and also add some to my top-off RO water. RO water has a lower pH than is suitable for a reef tank, so you always want to use a buffer with it.

I use Kent Marine Superbuffer dKH+... it is a powder that you dissolve in a little tank water and add it that way. There are others too... anything from Salifert, Seachem and Kent are usually tried and true products.

Jesse

 

[Sea_Dawg]

I am going to be getting Kent Marine Superbuffer dkh...I have some questions about it.

How often will I need to use it on the tank???
Also if I overdose with it by accident will it cause my pH and alk to go way up???

 

[reefman23]

You will want to get a tester and use it only when you need to. I use it after water changes and in my topoff RO... that generally keeps it stable. I dont think you can really overdose it, especially if you follow the instructions on the product... Buffers are set to a speific pH, it will raise or lower the pH, whichever is necessary to get to a particular pH.

Jesse