Red Slime

Iceburg98

New Member
I'm having a small outbreak of red slime algae, and i was wondering what the best way to combat this problem would be? I'm already just pulling it off the rocks and sand and doing water changes. Should i just continue this way, or is there something else i could be doing that would be easier? Also, would better filtration help with this? I have a friend that's willing to sell me a small skimmer pretty cheap, but i'm not sure if i should get it or not. :-k

Thanks
 

Physh1

New Member
It could be due to a few things....high organic levels where carbon would help...old bulbs where new ones would help...unstable pH doesn't help. How are those variables in your tank and what about the other water parameters?

Cameron
 

Iceburg98

New Member
Well, i'm already running carbon, and my bulbs are only about a month old. The only thing i could think of that it might be off that list is the Ph, but i buffer that... I'll have to take readings in the morning and see where everything is though.

Dave
 

YMCA

New Member
U can get red slime due to some things such as:
>High Poshates and high nitrates
>AS already said Ph swings
>Most tanks get it with in the first 12 months of setting up have a chance of getting it

I here that dripping kalkwasser helps (i have no personal experience)
Regular waterchanges
Taking it out manually

I no it is the biggest pain i have had to deal with in my tank it is growing all over the rock and is becoming uncomfoertably close to my Staghorn.
At the moment i am just taking it out manually and keeping up with weekly 1g water changes
HTH

JOsh
 

incysor

New Member
Cyano is usually caused by overfeeding/underfiltering, and/or a lack of flow. This is why it usually starts forming in the low-flow-well-lit areas first. The higher your phosphates are the more likely you are to have it. Do a large water change, change out your filter media, and cut your feeding in half. If you've got an extra powerhead laying around put it in the tank and make sure to direct the flow so that the dead areas are getting hit.

B
 

dragon79

New Member
incysor said:
Cyano is usually caused by overfeeding/underfiltering, and/or a lack of flow. This is why it usually starts forming in the low-flow-well-lit areas first. The higher your phosphates are the more likely you are to have it. Do a large water change, change out your filter media, and cut your feeding in half. If you've got an extra powerhead laying around put it in the tank and make sure to direct the flow so that the dead areas are getting hit.

B
what do you define as overfeeding for tank of 12 gallons. Sandras comes and goes. Have two pumps creating good flow. She uses that chemi-clean which helps to rid that stuff, but comes back after a few months I noticed. I know she has to be feeding cyclopeeze and mysis more often for the Mandarin, and just yesterday hatched some baby brine shrimp with that hatchery kit I bought from brineshrimpdirect.com he's getting his fill, but I wonder with catering to the mandy's needs, is that causing cyano to come more often? What do you recommend? Bigger water changes? Change direction of second pump to face directly to red slime? (sorry to the main person who started the thread but wanted to join in since my g/f has the same problem.)
 

incysor

New Member
I'd test for phosphates and see what your levels are. It's very easy to overfeed with cyclopeeze. If your phosphate levels come back high, I'd try cutting your feeding in half, and get some type of phosphate absorber. Easiest way to reduce your feeding is to feed every other day if you're feeding every day now.

B
 

dragon79

New Member
incysor said:
I'd test for phosphates and see what your levels are. It's very easy to overfeed with cyclopeeze. If your phosphate levels come back high, I'd try cutting your feeding in half, and get some type of phosphate absorber. Easiest way to reduce your feeding is to feed every other day if you're feeding every day now.

B
SALIFERT Phospate tester the only thing you'd recommend? I know they are expensive, but if there is a cheaper one to pick up or you recommend I'll go with that. Wouldnt' hurt either to throw in Phosban as well in conjunction to the Chemi-pure that's already in there. I imagine you can stack them together in the same chamber.
 

incysor

New Member
dragon79 said:
incysor said:
I'd test for phosphates and see what your levels are. It's very easy to overfeed with cyclopeeze. If your phosphate levels come back high, I'd try cutting your feeding in half, and get some type of phosphate absorber. Easiest way to reduce your feeding is to feed every other day if you're feeding every day now.

B
SALIFERT Phospate tester the only thing you'd recommend? I know they are expensive, but if there is a cheaper one to pick up or you recommend I'll go with that. Wouldnt' hurt either to throw in Phosban as well in conjunction to the Chemi-pure that's already in there. I imagine you can stack them together in the same chamber.
If you don't already have a phosphate test kit, I'd just take a sample into your LFS and have them test it. If it tests high then I'd buy one, so you can keep an eye on it.

B
 

Iceburg98

New Member
yeah - it seems that most of the algae is growing in the back corner where the flow isn't that high. I might try adjustig the output of my skimmer or re-aim my powerhead to try to stir that spot up a little more. I'll also try more frequent water changes, and feeding a little less...
 

Iceburg98

New Member
Well, while i was doing a water change i pulled out one of the rocks that had it and scrubbed most of the algae off, and so far it doesn't seem like it's coming back. I also added a small piece of (cycled) LR from another tank i'm setting up and placed it so that it directed the outflow of my skimmer towards that back corner that wasn't getting any flow before.

This seems to be helping, and it also allows me to crank up the skimmer a bit more without it blowing everything around in the tank. (And i am now a firm believer in how great skimmers are compared to HOBs).

I may go to my LFS and have them test for phosphate, but this seems to be clearing it up on it's own...
 
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