problem with return

[amf82380]

I have a 46 gal bow front and I am using an external over flow box with a mag 5 return pump in a amrical sump and I am getting alot of micro bubbles in the display from the return line I have done everything I can think of to prevent it but nothing seems to help I have taken the return line out and made a new one fearing it wasnt sealed well with no luck I put a foam block where the water enteres the return chamber still nothing I even put a foam filter on the drain end where the water enteres the sump and I am still getting them even taken the pump apart to clean it thinking something got sucked up inside of it and it was causing air bubbles to be formed but no such luck but its getting on my nerves cause I have the micro bubble stuck on everything tank walls and everything else so please help

Aaron

 

[reefman23]

Are there any bubbles from the sump that are being sucked into the return pump? Sometimes I will get a stomatella crawling up the last baffle in my sump and it will cause a minor disturbance in the sheet of water falling over the baffle and this will actually cause quite a bit of bubble to enter the display.

I dont know if that helps or not :neutral:

Jesse

 

[amf82380]

I dont have any baffles in the sump I switched it out for an empty 10gal I had laying around and spread everything out a little more and it seemed to help a little and I also put a prefilter on the return pump although it was suggested that I put it on the drain line to help cut down on some of the bubbles coming from there I dont seem any of the bubbles near the return pump so im not sure where there coming from. things seem to be inproving a little Ill give it a day or so see how things are then after everything has settled a little from the moving everything around.

Aaron

 

[reefman23]

I would definitely suggest a set of three baflles to help prevent bubbles getting into the return pump... the first and third baffle going all the way to the bottom and the center one spaced about 1" above the bottom and 1" or so away from the outer two. Like this:

That is about the only way I can think of to prevent those tiny bubbles from entering the display.

Jesse

 

[amf82380]

sounds like a good I dea I think I will be adding them sooner then later and well I got yourattention I was thinking about upgrading my return pump Im using the mag drive pump now but I was browsing thru your build thread and noticed that you used the quiet one pump and I was wondering what your opion is on them I was looking at either the 3000 or the 4000HH being that it only returns on my tank approx 3ft the 3000 would give me about 612 gph and the 4000HH 855 gph both are a vast improvment from what im getting from the mag 5 which is giving me 322 GPH right now and also with upgrading the pump I was looking at adding 2-3 of the hydro 3 or 4's with the 3's being rated at 850 gph my flow would be increasing to about 3405 GPH whic equals out to roughly a turn over rateof around 74 x's an hr which I think would be good enough for just about any SPS out there obvisouly I choose the hydor's because of there wide flow patteren and the return would be 4 outputs probably on a SCWD kinda something like your set up with either 4-6 outputs not sure yet but whats your thoughts or idea on something like that ?

Aaron

 

[reefman23]

I love the quietone pumps. They are quiet and use half the watts of other pumps. I do HATE one thing about them though. That is, when the power goes out or I turn the pump off, it does not come back on every time when the power comes back. It can take several times of unplugging and plugging in again to get it to start back up.

I would go with the 4000 or 4000HH, just remember that the HH uses 90-something watts but heat shouldnt be a huge concern in a take you size with the sump anyways.

I also think you will get a little better quality out of the Tunze Nanostream that you would the Hydors.. the 8045 is also controllable... just an option.

HTH,

Jesse

 

[amf82380]

I was thinking about the tunze but there a little on the pricey side and with my budget being as tight as it is I dont know whats the cheapest you have seen them priced at if I could find one for around the same I would look at it a little closer. also being I like the set up you had when you orginally post the 20long could you do me a favoer and five me a parts list (the return side of the system) plumbing wise and all. how do you like the SCWD? I had thought about on when I set up the system I have but with the little bit of flow I am getting now it really wouldnt pay being the flow I am getting from the mag pump is only on one return. anyway let me know thanks

Aaron

 

[reefman23]

I was thinking about the Tunze but there a little on the pricey side and with my budget being as tight as it is I don’t know whats the cheapest you have seen them priced at if I could find one for around the same I would look at it a little closer.

It seems that Tunze sets the price because they are the same price everywhere I look. The Hydor's are indeed less expensive, they aren’t much larger if at all, and they are pretty good quality.

also being I like the set up you had when you originally post the 20long could you do me a favor and five me a parts list (the return side of the system) plumbing wise and all. How do you like the SCWD? I had thought about on when I set up the system I have but with the little bit of flow I am getting now it really wouldn’t pay being the flow I am getting from the Mag pump is only on one return.

I actually am not satisfied with the return side of my tank and really haven’t been since I set up this tank. I actually have plans here in the near future to move my tank over to another stand... a REAL OAK stand made by a professional, not the jerry-rigged POS that I have now. I am re-doing the entire return line from the pump all the way up to the tank. The first reason for this change is I don’t like the PVC plumbing. This time I went with tubing sold as a vacuum line for pools/Jacuzzi’s... http://www.hardwareandtools.com/invt/6637524

I bought it at home depot for a little over $3/foot I believe.

So... this may be a bit confusing...

• From the pump there is a 1" ball valve
• Then a fitting to step up the 1" female ball valve to a 1-1/2" female outlet
• Then a 1-1/2" fitting that has a male thread on one end (to screw into the ball valve) and a barb end (to attach to the spa flex return line) http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c247/ ... onbarb.jpg
• Then another male threadXbarb fitting (this time to attach the other end of the spa flex to a "T" fitting)
• Then there is a 1-1/2" "T" with a female inlet. This will be mounted to the upper rear of the stand in the center because obviously the flex return line won’t give it any support.
• Then there are two reducers (1-1/2" to a 1"), one on either outlet of the "T"
• Then there are two 1" threaded unions, one on either side. These are a must-have. They enable you to take apart the plumbing for cleaning and all that, but then screw right back together and form a watertight seal. http://www.aquariumpros.com/p-P1UNIONT,PFvu.html They are half that much at Lowes.
• Then there are just a series of 1" PVC and 90* elbows up into the tank

I hope that all makes sense. I should be able to post a bunch of detailed pictures when I start that project.


Also, you want my opinion on the SCWD? They suck. They cut down on the flow WAY more than they advertise. I would guess I lose about 30% of my flow. Now keep in mind that my Quiet One 4000 loses a lot to head pressure, so a Mag may nut suffer so much from the SCWD, but I have heard other people complain about how much flow is lost because of the SCWD too. The main reason for this is the inlets and outlets are TINY. Yes they attach to 3/4" vinyl tubing, but the ID of the outlets are tiny. It will get the job done, but you will have to take into account the lost flow and also the fact that these things generally do not last that long.

I really hope that helps you out. Let me know if you have any more questions!

Jesse