Ok I have a question that I maybe over looking the obvious here but here it is .......On Monday Sushi our gold stripe clown decided to jump out of the tank he landed a cool 4-5 feet away now I have had a partial cover of plexi to prevent splash on the light , so on Tuesday I got a full glass top cut to fit the tank now my tank is running at 83 - 85 degrees I have a fan on the light but , but when I had only the partial top my temps were 75- 77.1 degrees with the central ac on , now we are getting cooler temps and did not want to continue running the central ac the heater in the filter is set at 74 degrees and has not fired on at all . Any suggestions as to combat this heat issue with out a chiller ? As I said I maybe over looking the obvious here . Thanks Sadie
New glass top = over heating
- Thread starter sadielynn
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Anonymous
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I would not even consider using a glass top on any of my tanks - nothing but trouble - heating issues, as you discovered, lack of evap limits use of kalkwasser and condensation and salt creep lead to lowering light penentration and something else to clean each week. Use eggcrate material it will keep jumpers in and let airflow across surface. jmo 
It probably will but I dont think you would notice the difference....but then again you may since eggcrate is actually used for lighting as a diffuser. It may cause some shadows depending on the distance it is set to the light. A farther distance will cause shadows compared to having it set nearer. I used a clear acrylic sheet for my 2.5 and placed a small feeding hole in front and traced cut around the water outlet for the Aquaclear that I'm using. My highest temps without the AC has been 83.1F but with a small fan blowing against the glass, the highest i've seen so far is 82.6F...average temp is 80.7 to 81.4F degrees. But I will probably buy some eggcrate this weekend and play around with it and see if I could make something out of it but not as a splashguard. I just like stocking on various materials. You never know what good you could use it for.
mikeguerrero
Active Member
Looks like you have a good solution in the making to prevent carpet surfacing for you fish.
For my particular tank and it's design, I am completely for glass tops, the tighter the fit the better.
My glass top is almost air tight and I get superior results against evaporation. I place two cups of water once a week and this is 72 gallons of water.
Before I would go just two days and have to place in about half a gallon of H20. I also have no chance for carpet surfacing at my house; any carpet surfacing will be donr by me and only me. :lol:
Also the my Metal halide gets zero salt water spray and my tank is dust free. Without the top a lot of fine dust would skim down to my filter bag.
My rubost chiller keeps my crazy tank from ever even trying to get to 80 degrees. It's set to turn on at 79.5 and shut off at 76.5. Remember that my condo a is heat trapper on the second floor and I don't have central AC. Even with this sauna heat in my house, the chiller keeps my critter cool at 77 degrees. I wouldn't have it any other way.
My sump even has a glass lid. Overall I'm really happy on what a glass lid can do besides trap heat; oh yeah, it will never warp under any MH setting.
All said and done; John brings up valid points for those who don't have the chiller to compensate the heat issues.
Mike
For my particular tank and it's design, I am completely for glass tops, the tighter the fit the better.
My glass top is almost air tight and I get superior results against evaporation. I place two cups of water once a week and this is 72 gallons of water.
Before I would go just two days and have to place in about half a gallon of H20. I also have no chance for carpet surfacing at my house; any carpet surfacing will be donr by me and only me. :lol:
Also the my Metal halide gets zero salt water spray and my tank is dust free. Without the top a lot of fine dust would skim down to my filter bag.
My rubost chiller keeps my crazy tank from ever even trying to get to 80 degrees. It's set to turn on at 79.5 and shut off at 76.5. Remember that my condo a is heat trapper on the second floor and I don't have central AC. Even with this sauna heat in my house, the chiller keeps my critter cool at 77 degrees. I wouldn't have it any other way.
My sump even has a glass lid. Overall I'm really happy on what a glass lid can do besides trap heat; oh yeah, it will never warp under any MH setting.
All said and done; John brings up valid points for those who don't have the chiller to compensate the heat issues.
Mike
Thank you all for your answers ,
I did get some today , as for cutting I found it easier to cut with a jig saw with a blade for metal and a dremal for sanding and rounding out the edges , keeping in mind that this is a bowfront so no easy squares to cut other than that I got two out of one sheet and can probably get 2 more easy. Now the tank is at a cool 76- 77.1 degrees I will know better as time wears on as to wether this infact fixed the problem , hopefully I wont need the ac on all the time now. Thanks again
I did get some today , as for cutting I found it easier to cut with a jig saw with a blade for metal and a dremal for sanding and rounding out the edges , keeping in mind that this is a bowfront so no easy squares to cut other than that I got two out of one sheet and can probably get 2 more easy. Now the tank is at a cool 76- 77.1 degrees I will know better as time wears on as to wether this infact fixed the problem , hopefully I wont need the ac on all the time now. Thanks again
Sadielynn- 70watss PC youre fine..but if it were a halide lamp....thats a different story since halides though with the same wattage as a PC tends to run alot hotter....
Mike-I'm curious about the chiller you have...thats the same JBJ chiller? And without any AC...nice...I want one of those. Nice job on the 72.
Mike-I'm curious about the chiller you have...thats the same JBJ chiller? And without any AC...nice...I want one of those. Nice job on the 72.
mikeguerrero
Active Member
Master,
I think a chiller is very important and one of the only reasons I never purchased one for both my nanos is that no one ever designed one for it.
The only chiller that was ever created was the ICA unit and we all know how well that worked; kept the tank from reaching disastorous readings but in no way was it intended to keep your tank at 77 degrees.
The chiller was designed for that purpose; to keep the temp constant at what ever you want period. I couldn't imagine running an AC unit constant just to try to keep a tank cool, can you imagine the electic bill?
My chiller is not on constant, it turns on 3 to 4 times a day for about 1/2 hour each time. I will see the bill at the end of the month and share that with all you reefers.
The Reef keeper keeps it on and off with my settings saving me money. I really like the JBJ chiller, it's very quiet and it has a nice look to it, very contempo with my condo.
Sadie, did you return your glass lid for your bow tank, they are very expensive.
Mike
I think a chiller is very important and one of the only reasons I never purchased one for both my nanos is that no one ever designed one for it.
The only chiller that was ever created was the ICA unit and we all know how well that worked; kept the tank from reaching disastorous readings but in no way was it intended to keep your tank at 77 degrees.
The chiller was designed for that purpose; to keep the temp constant at what ever you want period. I couldn't imagine running an AC unit constant just to try to keep a tank cool, can you imagine the electic bill?
My chiller is not on constant, it turns on 3 to 4 times a day for about 1/2 hour each time. I will see the bill at the end of the month and share that with all you reefers.
The Reef keeper keeps it on and off with my settings saving me money. I really like the JBJ chiller, it's very quiet and it has a nice look to it, very contempo with my condo.
Sadie, did you return your glass lid for your bow tank, they are very expensive.
Mike