My new Crocea

KidNano

New Member
Anyone know what this worm thingy on the side of this clam is? I bought it from Jesse and didn't notice this thing until I got it home. It appears to be bothering the clam so I'm not sure if I should try to remove it or if it's the clams friend or what. Advice would be appreciated.

 

reefman23

New Member
Hey Cris.

Sorry I didnt point that out... I was all wrapped up in getting things bagged and all. I have had a couple people come by and take a look at it and couldnt figure out what it was. I was going to try to remove it myself but never got to it. Hopefully someone here can ID it as good or bad. Is the clam doing okay? It didnt seem to be bothering it when it was in my tank... the mantle was always fully open all day long. Let me know and Ill come with some tools and try to remove it. Maybe I can cut it off with a dremel.

Jesse
 

Trogdor

New Member
I would try reefcentral.com, they have some really good people that can help with identification and treatment.
 

johnanddawn

New Member
if it has a feather it is a calcarious worm, if you see little strings or webbing it is a vermitted snail. either way it the clam is opening i doubt it is an issue. if it is irritating the clam removal should be no problem - just don't hurt the clam doing it
 

KidNano

New Member
it doesn't seem to be hurting the Clam but becuase of the move to my tank It excruting long string slimmy strands and when the current blows them into the mantle it withdraws from that area. you can see in the pics above what I'm talking about. Other than that I don't notice any other issues. hopefully once the slug thing calms down it will stop doing that.

It doesn't have a feather. It literally looks like a snail thats stuck and can't move. It has little antennas and a mouth. In the top picture you can see it's antennas and in the bottom picture your looking at its mouth.
 

KidNano

New Member
reefman23 said:
Hey Cris.

Sorry I didnt point that out... I was all wrapped up in getting things bagged and all. I have had a couple people come by and take a look at it and couldnt figure out what it was. I was going to try to remove it myself but never got to it. Hopefully someone here can ID it as good or bad. Is the clam doing okay? It didnt seem to be bothering it when it was in my tank... the mantle was always fully open all day long. Let me know and Ill come with some tools and try to remove it. Maybe I can cut it off with a dremel.

Jesse
Yeah no worries Jesse. I'll do as troggy reccomends and see if anyone over there can help figure out what it is. How long has it been there that you can remember? What are you doing this Sat? My wife has a continuing education class going all day so I'll be home with Little Mac all day. If your free and want to come by and check out my tank and give me some ideas let me know. I'd be nervous about taking a dremel to it though. I bet we could get it free with a tool that doesn't have so many RPMS. one slip and it would all be over. Plus we'd have to take it out of the water and you told me not to because then I'd have to burp it. It's hard enough burping my daughter and she has a soft outer shell.

Let me know. Eveyrthing is doing really well considering. The Star Polyps finally opened up this morning. They're the last to open. Bring by that yellow watchman if you have the chance to catch him. If you don't have a home for your hermits and snails I'll take good care of them as well for you.

Talk to you later. Oh yeah.... I'll be home all day tomorrow too.
 

reefman23

New Member
KidNano said:
Yeah no worries Jesse. I'll do as troggy reccomends and see if anyone over there can help figure out what it is. How long has it been there that you can remember? What are you doing this Sat? My wife has a continuing education class going all day so I'll be home with Little Mac all day. If your free and want to come by and check out my tank and give me some ideas let me know. I'd be nervous about taking a dremel to it though. I bet we could get it free with a tool that doesn't have so many RPMS. one slip and it would all be over. Plus we'd have to take it out of the water and you told me not to because then I'd have to burp it. It's hard enough burping my daughter and she has a soft outer shell.

Let me know. Eveyrthing is doing really well considering. The Star Polyps finally opened up this morning. They're the last to open. Bring by that yellow watchman if you have the chance to catch him. If you don't have a home for your hermits and snails I'll take good care of them as well for you.

Talk to you later. Oh yeah.... I'll be home all day tomorrow too.
It has only been on there about a month. I should have some time on Sat. Ill let you know. Ill bring the goby and any snails/hermits that I have left.

Talk to you later,

Jesse
 

johnanddawn

New Member
KidNano said:
It excruting long string slimmy strands and when the current blows them into the mantle it withdraws from that area. It doesn't have a feather. It has little antennas and a mouth. In the top picture you can see it's antennas and in the bottom picture your looking at its mouth.
definitly a vermitid snail

i had a few that came in on a piece of encructing monti their "web" irritated the monti in that it didn't polyp out so i took a syringe and zaped it like it was an aptatia with some strong kalk
 

KidNano

New Member
Yeah that is what someone on reefcentral just said. Does the shell shrivel up and go away as well? Will taking it off harm the shell of the clam? If I'm going to kill it then I'd like to take it off so it isn't so much of an eye soar. Will Joes Juice work? I don't have any Kalk. I almost bought some yesterday but my LFS reccomended a two part calcium buffer because it's easier to use. I have quite a few LPS and SPS so I'm thinking I need to keep an eye on my calcium... All of my new coraline algae is green and I'm concerned that might be becuase my calcium being to low. Any thoughts for me there? Also if you reccomend I use Kalk which brand should I use? Oh yeah... one more thing. I've read on reef central that a lot of people feed there clams and I've read in other areas to just use phytoplankton like DT's becuase their feeding filters or what ever can get clogged and they won't be able to eat or breath if over fed.

Thanks.

It has only been on there about a month. I should have some time on Sat. Ill let you know. Ill bring the goby and any snails/hermits that I have left.

Talk to you later,

Jesse
Let me know what time to expect you. Thanks bro.
 

johnanddawn

New Member
the shell will not go away but also it will not be an eyesore it is CaCO3 just like the clam shell and will soon be covered with corallines - i would not worry about it in the least, not worth stressing the clam over - chicks dig scars ;)
joes would work i imagine i just have never used it - kalk isn't going to harm your tank and is just safer imo
2 pt is very easy to use and i use a type of 2 part myself but i also drip kalk at night. imo until you have a large population of growing sps 2 part is not neccessary. a simple iv dripper with kalk supplying all you top off water will be sufficient to meet most tank needs and water changes mantain the rest of the ions in balance so no need to dose anything else. personal choice... up to you
the type of coralline is more likely due to light. i have found that whiter light does not grow the pinks and purp corallines as well as actinic does but you should be testing your Ca and ALK at least weekly anyway. shoot for 7-8.4 alk and 350-400 Ca but do not make any large corrections with suppliments. if you have an issue change water then suppliment to mantain proper levels
kalk is CaOH so they are all basically the same - i use kent marine. i also use kents turbo in my two part
a lot of people on RC say/do a lot of things :)
you do not need to target feed clams unless they are very small and then they may need supplimental feedings of very small phytos like dt's. i have two for some time now and don't feed them. i would buy it if you had a super over sized skimmer and super low pop of micro organisms (phyto/zoa/bacteria) you then need to spot feed some things but in general most of us do not have that pure of water NOR WOULD YOU WANT TO.
so yes clams do eat very small particulates but imo you can do a lot of harm in fouling your water trying to spot feed anything when there is allready plenty of natural feeds in a healthy system anyway
 

KidNano

New Member
OK... I'm confused about the IV drip with the top off water. are you saying to use that as my top off water. I go through about a gallon a day and I don't know if they have IV bags that big. Or are you saying drip that into my top off water? Is this assuming that I have an ATO?

I like that feeding isn't neccesary. I have a ASM mini G which I believe is rated up to 80 gallons on my 60 gallon with a 20 gallon fuge. I don't know the exact water volume though as my fuge is only about 1/2 to 3/4 full and rock sand and what not. Probably not over sized though. As far as lighting.... 3 x54watts right now. one aquablue plus one pure actinic and one actinic plus. As you can see I have more actinics then white light. The green coraline isn't pretty to look at. I do have purple and pinks but its starting to get over taken with the green. Do you think the green is going to turn purple?

thanks. I guess for now I'm going to leave the vermitid snail alone. See what happens. If he keeps spitting stufff out and buggin the clam then I'll take care of him. I think I have one of these growing on the side of one of my hermit crabs too. interesting.
 

johnanddawn

New Member
2 parts are MUCH easier to use but are also easy to develop an ionic imbalance and do nothing to stabilize pH. Kalk does not effect balance and if done correctly will not throw any params out of wack
dosing kalkwasser can be a pita if your not set up to do it but it is the most time tested method of meeting a tanks need for Ca while mantaining ALK and pH - it alone however will not meet the needs of a full blown SPS reef with large growing corals, that is why many high tech heavy people have gone to Ca reactors or Kalk stirrers and low tech people like myself use two part solutions and a kalk drip. now realize - i ran my 125 reef tank for over 10 years without any supliments of any kind but that is when i had mostly softies, shrooms and LPS's. i can't stress enough MOST TANKS DO NOT NEED any supliments at all, water changes are better, cheaper, and more effective. but if/when you start down the SPS road - suppliments do become neccessary.
for example, i do not dose anything in either of these 2 tanks of mine ever!:



so here are your options if your Ca and ALK are becoming high demand:
2 part - with your tank i estimate about 1/4 of a cup of liquid mix each per day (assuming your using a balanced solution like randy's 2 part) i add the buffer part at dusk and the Ca part at dawn. test weekly to see if that works, you may have to cut back or add more depending on your results. also before you do this you should have your params in order by doing a couple water changes and read randy holmes farley's many articles on the subject

kalkwasser - you need a mixing container. with your evap a 5 gallon bucket may work - i use a 35 gal plastic garbage can because my daily topoff is 2.5 gallons. the reason you need a seperate mixing container is that there will be a precipitate on the top and on the bottom and you want the clear liquid in the middle. i used a 5 gallon bucket for a while it had a hole with a valve 1" above the bottom so i could just open up the valve into a pitcher to fill my dripper. Now i have a pump in the resevoir with a hose leading to my dripper so all i have to do is hit a switch to fill my dripper - much more convient.
then using a dripper like this one
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/p ... 3677&rel=1
you drip ALL your top off water to the sump at night in the form of clear kalkwasser

my method is obviously not the easiest or only way to do any of this - but it works for me - look at my banner! there are many many ways to do the same thing, just keep in mind the simpler the better.

as far as feeding - i said that because so many people go to there LFS and buy frozen or liquid food suppliments and end up poluting their tanks. randomly adding anything to your tank is not a good practice, but LFS make their living selling people things they don't need. i do occationally target feed frozen mysis/cyclops/vitamin mix to my LPS just cause i like to watch them eat... :) if you do target feed - do it first thing in the morning when the lights come on cause their feeding tenticles will be out already
 

KidNano

New Member
kalkwasser - you need a mixing container. with your evap a 5 gallon bucket may work - i use a 35 gal plastic garbage can because my daily topoff is 2.5 gallons. the reason you need a seperate mixing container is that there will be a precipitate on the top and on the bottom and you want the clear liquid in the middle. i used a 5 gallon bucket for a while it had a hole with a valve 1" above the bottom so i could just open up the valve into a pitcher to fill my dripper. Now i have a pump in the resevoir with a hose leading to my dripper so all i have to do is hit a switch to fill my dripper - much more convient.
then using a dripper like this one
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/p ... 3677&rel=1
you drip ALL your top off water to the sump at night in the form of clear kalkwasser
So I'd mix five gallons and if I got the 2.5 gallon dripper I could use this essentially as an "ATO" and doser at the same time? I get what your saying about it probably not being necessary to dose, but my change water comes low on Calcium and magnesium. I use Ocean water instead of premix and since it's not coming from Fiji, Florida or Hawaii it doesn't have the appropriate levels. I only have 4 LPS, 4 SPS frags and the Crocea so it's probably not necessary now as you said. However I'm irritated with my new Green color coraline so I'm hoping this may help bring some prettier colors and help it grow quicker. Plus I want to get ready to introduce more LPS and SPS so having the appropriate set up and making sure I get it right now will help save me money from killing them off later and give me more confidence that I'll be able to take care of them. I need to get a mag test kit still, but my calcium is regularly between 350 and 400.

OK back to your description. should I leave a powerhead in my mixing container so the 2.5 gallons left doesn't go stale? And will this be OK to add 2-3 days after the fact? Can I get this dripper to drip slow enough to last two days? I've heard you say in the past that you want to drip it right after mixing so I'm just curious if I shouldn't combine this drip and my ATO.

Also I just use test strips for PH and Alk. my ALK is always at the highest color at 300. I have no way of telling if it's actually higher then this. What is too high? Should I get a better test kit?

Thanks again for your time and help.

And by the way... I repositioned my clam so the webing wouldn't touch his mantle and I think i'm just going to leave him alone untill I see the snail is affecting him.
 

johnanddawn

New Member
no the pump only need to be on for 1/2 hour or so the the mix in the resevoir then it has to sit overnight to settle out leaving the liquid clear. there will be solids in the bottom and a skum on top that will clog the dripper so don't add them
no the dripper will not drip slow enough for two days. only add as much as you need to each evening and let it drip at night ie add a gallon to the dripper each night just after the lights go out and by morning it will be topped off
i would buy a alk test - to be honest the only param i test on a regular basis is ALK - normally every weekend. i believe it to be the most important param
i'll try to take a pic of my old 5 gal mixing bucket for you
 

KidNano

New Member
i'll try to take a pic of my old 5 gal mixing bucket for you
That would be awesome. I think I'm getting this figured out. one last question with the mix bucket.

So the water/kalk in the mixing buck is fine to sit for a few days with out any movement?

I'll get an alk test kit and a mag test kit then. I just want to see where my change water is starting off. The stuff that I purchased the other day is ESV B-Ionic Calcium Buffer System. Component no. 1 is Alkalinity and Component no. 2 is Calcium. The recommended starting dose is 1 ml per 4 gallons.

Also how often do you vaccum your sand bed again? It's such a pain in the butt and I hate seeing all the little mini brittles going down the drain. Also I have so many frags I've always got to move them around and out of the way. Do you move the stuff in your sand bed or just vacumm around them?
 

johnanddawn

New Member
yeah it can sit a week easy - my trash can last 2 weeks
that 2 part will be fine but i believe with your small CaCO3 draw you should not use very much at all. i dose 3/4 cup each of my 2 part, each day
i vacuum about 1/4 each water change - i like clean sand. i have the same issue with corals and frags laying in the sand bed and yes its a PITA but i move them back and forth. every once in a while i get really ambitious and even move some rock and vacuum under it - but i have very large rocks and none of it is stacked on top of each other so i can do that most people can't cause they have reef walls
here is my old bucket - the valve is actually from a hobby store that sells beer making stuff (that reminds me - i haven't made any in a while) i would add about 2 tablespoons powder and fill the bucket. make sure it mixes well and then let it sit for about 12 hours then just fill the pitcher and dump that in the dripper every night. very hands on but i like playing with my tank even if it is just simple mantainence you know???
 

KidNano

New Member
Awesome, Thanks for the pics and all the info. I just got that stupid Maroon Clown out of there so I'm ready to reorganize and get my tank settled so everything can start growing. I had my rock work set up to try and block the view between my two clowns to minimize the fighting. Now that he's gone I can do what ever I want. Jesse's giving me his yellow watchman so I don't have to worry about replacing Sid(maroon clown). I'm going to spend sometime this weekend glueing frags to the rocks and getting as much up off the sand as I can for easy access for vaccuming. I have problems with the glue's not holding very strong. They seem to always come loose. Do you use glue or the putty? I'm thinking about getting putty. I have some big hermits that have no problems knocking things out of their way.
 

johnanddawn

New Member
if i can take the rock out (this is always best if possible) i use super glue gel for frags, plugs, or small rubble mounts. i usually use a little glue dip it in some water for a minute of two to let it harden, then glue again - always works for plugs and small rubble mount frags

if it is a large piece of rock rubble then i take it out and use a bit of glue just to hold it in place and then use epoxy to cement all the way around the rubble. i DO NOT use epoxy on coral as it will kill it as it cures only on rock or plug to rock.

in tank glueing is a bit tougher. only for small pieces (like SPS or zoa frags) on plug or rubble will this first method work. i take a small ball (about the size of a large pea) of epoxy, i put a drop of super glue on the plug then the epoxy then another drop of glue on the epoxy. place the plug in the tank on the rock where you want it and push forcfully into place and twist a bit, hold for a minute and it will stay.

larger pieces glue in tank can even be tougher. i take and create a snake of epoxy long enough to go all the way around and use my fingers to mold it around the rock forcing it in and over. generally 24 hours later you have to do the same thing again to get the spots you missed or didn't have enough putty.
 
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