JBJ Nano Arctica

[hobokendude]

Hi. I'm thinking of purchasing a JBJ Nano Arctica (1/15 hp nano artica chiller) for my 12 gallon JBJ Nanocube. Can someone please illustrate how this would be set up in the nanocube? It appears that the hood only has a small hole for the powerhead electric cord. Would drilling and cutting be invovled in order to place the in-take and out-take tubes into the tank? Also, where would these tubes be placed (Could they go into the back part, into the filtration system?)?? If someone could share pictures of their set up, I would really appreciate it! THANK YOU!!!

 

[drty811]

cant help you out but i know MIKE G is running one or one similar. he could definitly help you out.

 

[mikeguerrero]

The JBJ nano chiller has to be plumbed correctly for it to cool down your reef. This means that you need to purchase the correct pump to generate the correct contact time the water needs against the coils of the chiller.

Too fast will cause your chiller to be on all the time, to slow will cause the chiller to turn on and off too many times.

You need to figure in feet how much head pressure you will need for the pump to meet these demands.

So measure from the top of your tank to the bottom of the chiller, if you place it on a floor down to the floor, if on a chair up to the base of the chiller where ever you place it.

Plumbing can be tricky as the JBJ line was not intended to have chillers on it. I've noticed that the new line of Oceanic cubes do have slits in the back top of the tank that can be removed if plumbing is required for such a chiller.

Build on your predessors and make it better is Capitalism at it's best.

Back to the JBJ, you would need to dremmel a large enough hole to have two tubbings enter and exit creating a closed loop system to cool your cube. It can be done, just need to create a hole just right.

If this seems like too much work, I suggest you purchase the ICA 2.0 from Chris at nanocustoms, that way you just drop it in one of the fan slots and require no drilling on your end, just send in your splash guard to him and he will cut the slot for you.

Hope this helps you out.

MG

 

[chasdb]

I have the 1/10 in a NC24 and just reworked the plumbing. I am running an open top so I didn't have to cut up the hood. Origonally I used 1/2 clear tubing with 90 degree hose barbs to keep it from kinking as it went over the back of the tank. Over time algea and muck started to reduce the flow. I'm using a Rio 1400 with 3/4 black tubing and now I'm moving some water. Pump is in chamber 3 with hose going over back wall down to the chiller on the floor. Return water from the chiller goes up over back of tank thru a 1/2 bulkhead in chamber 1 under the surface skimmer out thru a locline Y. I have a MJ1200 also in chamber 3 that exits thru the stock hole to a Hydor. No problems with temp as long as we have power. I had a ICAssist 2.0 with the upgraded power supply in a AP 12. I think it's alot of $ for something thats only good for a .5 degree drop in temp, 5-8 degrees max. I think that if you had the funds buy a true compressor based chiller and a Dremmel. You could always move that chiller to your next larger tank! The Current USA chillers look good too, their 1/15 has a digital dual stage controller (it will control an external heater).

 

[hobokendude]

Thank you, Chas! Looks like I've got a little of a challenge with my closed top (attached hood), but I will see what I can come up with. My friend who gave the tank is quite handy, so hopefully the two of us can come up with a good set up. I've ordered the JBJ Nano Artica (impulsive spending!) and may be asking for more advice when it arrives.

 

[mikeguerrero]

You will compromise looks for power with a large chiller plumbed into your system. If this is a center piece it's not going to look nice with all these cables and an open top hence the power of the ICA becomes a better incentive.

Just my 2 cents...

MG

 

[hobokendude]

I (impulsively) purchased the JBJ Nano chiller, which may turn out to be ok. It looks like I need to go and purchase the tubing, along with the appropriate pieces to attach to the ends of the tube that go into a tank, and a powerhead. I'm not sure if the pump in my tank is strong enough to pull the water through (it's the pump that came with the tank), is it? Sorry to keep asking silly questions, but I'm just a beginner , but could someone offer me some suggested layouts on how to set this up? Here some specific questions I have:

1. What do I attach to the end of the intake tube inside the tank so it just doesn't suck anything up? I assume the intake should be somewhere in one of the tank compartments. Maybe the 3rd one, where the powerheard currently exists?

2. What do I attach to the end of the out-take tube? Would it be wise to get a stronger water pump, then attach the output to the current water spout that goes into the tank from the back compartment?

3. What water pumps do you recommend that will be able to push the water through this thing (but not so strong that it is too rough in the tank)?

I would like to use 1 water pump/powerhead if possible, and that it fits in the compartment 3 of the tank. I would like to run it all in one line to keep things simple. I envision the water pump connected to the intake tube, which goes out of the tank to the chiller, then the outtake tube goes back into the tank connected to the current spout that goes from the back compartment to the tank. Does this make sense? Hope so. Any suggestions or advice to a newbie?

Thank you,
Chris

 

[hobokendude]

Just made a phone call to the company that makes the chiller and got some advice. They said I could purchase a maxijet 1200 water pump, which would be ok to have 1 pump in the tank. This would sit in compartment 3, then through tubing/J tube/tubing go to the nano chiller. Then from the nano chiller through tubing attach to the spout that goes into the tank from compartment 3. This would entail drilling or cutting into the back of the hood to have the J tube and tubing fit. This sounds like the most ideal set up to me, but wanted to check to see if anyone had any additional insight. Will this work? Thanks again! :mrgreen:

 

[chasdb]

I think that will work. I couldn't find flow requirements for the 1/15 chillers. the 1/10 needs 240-300 gpm. If you have too much or too little flow the chiller will not have an efficient heat exchange. The MJ1200 puts out 295gpm at 0 head. The 1200 may be one of the largest pumps that will fit in back. Try not to have any sharp bends in your tubing and keep the hoses as short as possible. If it's too much flow for the tank (which I doubt) you could install a locline with a Y to split the outputs to keep the sand from flying. I do recommend the black tubing so you don't have the algea problem, you can find it at Home Depot. -Charles

 

[hobokendude]

What would be wiser to use, the MJ1200 or Rio1400?

Also, will the Rio1400 also fit into the back compartment? I guess I could check with jbj for the dimensions of compartment 3.

 

[chasdb]

The 1400 is a very tight squeeze in the NC24 so I don't think it will fit in the 12. The MJ1200 may be just right.