Jasonanatal's JBJ 28 gallon Nano Cube HQI Nano Reef Aquarium

Jasonanatal

New Member
Electricity, Saltwater & Living Creatures Not a Good Combination.

My wife is such a wonderful woman who wants to make our very first Christmas together as special as it can be so she decided to give me a stocking stuffer from Santa Clause a bit early. I'm glad she pays attention when I bore her to death about the Marine Aquarium Hobby. It shows how much she loves me! Okay back on track, she remember that I had mentioned something about a Titanium Grounding Probe and decided to pick one up for me.



Photograph - My stocking stuffer, the Rid Volt Titanium Grounding Probe.

This is definitely an area that I can see makes enough of a point through common sense. Unfortunately I don't own any devices that can measure the electricl current in water if any at all before I setup the probe in comparison to after using the probe. In theory it makes perfect sense and what does it cost me? Not a penny so I just connected it to a grounded outlet as instructed and submersed the probe into the Aquarium Saltwater within the Far Left Baffle of the Rear Chamber on my JBJ 28 gallon Nano Cube HQI SPS Reef Aquarium.
 

mikeguerrero

Active Member
I'm very impressed with your aquascaping, it's not often you see a very natural looking formation in home reeftanks...

Mike G
 

Jasonanatal

New Member
mikeguerrero said:
I'm very impressed with your aquascaping, it's not often you see a very natural looking formation in home reeftanks...

Mike G
Mikeguerrero, thank you for the compliments on my JBJ 28 gallon Nano Cube HQI SPS Reef Aquarium. I attempted to keep the aquascaping as natural as possible while maximizing the available space within the Aquarium for an open area for Coral placement and open swimming area for the Fish
 

Jasonanatal

New Member
Something's Fishy with My Deresa Clam

Well I have all my thing packed for work and I'm just about to walk out the door and through the corner of my eye I see something unspeakable. My most priced possession and only Deresa Clam has an area of Pinched Mantel. Of all the things in the world why my Deresa Clam! Well out to work I go and hopefully in the morning I will see my Deresa Clam good as new. I'm come home the next morning and normally my Deresa Clam still has bout 0.25 Inch of the mantel extended during the Moonlight Photo-Period and brief time during the morning where both the Metal Halide Photo-Period and Moonlight Photo-Period are not in progress. But yet the same area that was experiencing the Pinched Mantel issue. With the Metal Halide Photo-Period about to kick in a few hours I decide to get some rest and come back to investigate.




Photograph - My Deresa Clam displaying signs of Pinch Mantel.

Now the Metal Halide Lighting is on and the Deresa Clam should have the entire Mantel Extended but unfortunately it is still displaying sign of Pinch Mantel. So I do a little looking around and what do I see causing the problem... an Aptasia Anemone! Now in the past this particular coral had an Aptasia Anemone growing on the side of it shell which was removed by using a Tweezers. This particular Aptasia Anemone was growing within the crevis of the already formed shell and the new layer that was growing. Precisely located underneath the normal Mantel extension area. The same method of using a tweezer to remove the Aptasia was performed and within an hour the Deresa Clam was fully extending its Mantel as normal. Thank goodness!



Photograph - My Deresa Clam feeling all better an hour after the removal of the Aptasia Anemone.
 

Jasonanatal

New Member
A More Detailed Look at Weekly Water Changes.

Hello everyone, I just thought I would go into a bit more detail on the processes that are included in the weekly water changes for my JBJ 28 gallon Nano Cube HQI SPS Reef Aquarium. As I have stated in previous post, the world of Nano Reef Aquariums is not forgiving in making honest mistakes or miscalculations which in the most minuscule amount can have devestating effects on the specimens your care for. This in turn means that I must pay careful attention to parameters of the newly mixed Saltwater as oppossed to the Saltwater already within the Nano Reef Aquarium.

Reverse Osmosis/Deionization or RO/DI Filtration

Well everything has to start somewhere and our first task is to ensure that nothing but the purist water possible can be used to in addition to a quality salt mixture. In order to do this I incorporate a Reverse Osmosis?Deionization or RO/DI Filtration System to purify the tap water coming from my bathroom faucet. Now some people might not now exactly what an RO/DI Filtration System is and how it works so here is a detailed explination. Water coming from you faucet has been chemically treated in order to bring it to any acceptable level for human consumption. Chemicals contained within the water can be anything from Flouride or Phosphates and here a kicker Arsenic. Well to be short about it their are many chemicals that vary from location to location that we do not want in our Aquariums. An RO/DI unit such as mine passes tap water at high pressures through Prefilters developed to chemically remove impurities (Carbon Prefilter) larger Solids (Sediment Prefilters and eventually extremely small solids (Reverse Osmosis Membrane) and finally removing the last amount of impurities both described as a chemical and mechanical filtration method (Deionization Canister) and into your bucket. Resulting in Freshwater that is reffered to as pure or scientifically have the least amount of Total Dissolved Solvents or TDS. Waste water is a byproduct of the filtration at a ratio of 1 gallon of purified water to an average of 4 gallons to 5 gallons of waste water which is expelled from the system at the Reverse Osmosis Membrane.

Notation: All Reverse Osmosis/Deionization Filtration Systems have a Reverse Osmosis Membrane labeled with a Gallons Per Day rating on them. This does not mean that you can leave your unit on for 24 hours and produce for example 75 gallons of Purified Freshwater on a system rate for 75 gallons per day. This means that your unit can process 75 gallons of water in that day which include both purified water in combination with waste water.



Photograph - A standard Reverse Osmosis /Deonization Filtration System with Carbon and Sediment Prefilters rated at 75 gallons per day.

In order to confirm that level of Total Dissolved Solvents of the purified water a hand held TDS Meter or Inline TDS Meter is required. This device works by measuring the electrical conductivity of the purified water by passing electrical current from one prong and receiving/measuring it at the other prong. The closer the reading is to 000 the more pure that water. This device can also ensure that your Reverse Osmosis/Deionization Filtration System is functioning properly.



Photograph - Hannah TDS Meter measuring the purity of the water.

Notation: Please ensure that your TDS Meter prongs are submerged in the water you are measuring the purity of. The photograph above was take for viewing purposes only. Also it is impossible to get the TDS Reading of saltwater so don't be alarmed if you place the TDS Meter in saltwater and the reading goes off the chart.

Mixing Synthetic Sea Salt for the Nano Reef Aquarium

Now this section is not meant to start a debate on what manufacturer of Synthetic Sea Salt will provide the optimal results for a Nano Reef Aquarium. Since I started in the Reef Keeping Hobby I was an avid Instant Ocean preffered hobbyist. But recently I have switched to Kent Marine Synthetic Sea Salt and I am quite pleased with the results so far. I measure my Kent Marine Synthetic Sea Salt at approximately 2.5 cups for 5 gallons of Freshwater which results in a Salinity Grade of 1.026 Salinity Grade or 35 Parts Per Thousand. I personally found standing at the bucket with a stick manually mixing the salt to be quite time cosuming. So I moved to a more aumated method incoporating a Mag-7 Water Pump to do the mixing for me. I also use a 200 watt Marineland Visi-therm Stealth Heater to match my Nano Reef Aquarium Water of 76 Degrees Fahrenheit and a Coralife Digital Thermometer to see when the temperature is an exact match.




Photograph - Kent Marine Synthetic Sea Salt Mix. The bag include a sealing mechanism like a Ziplock which is worth the high price itself. the seal it creates is airtight which ensure that your Synthetic Sea Salt Mix will not get clumpy from absorbing excessive moisture.



Photograph - My Pyrex measuring cup with Metric measurement for easy European measurements. Definitely comes in handy with European chemical dosing instructions.


Photograph - Beginning of mixing process.


Photograph - 10 minuts into the mixing process.


Photograph - 25 minutes into the mixing process and the Saltwater is ready for the water change.

Notation: The time allowed for the Synthetic Sea Salt to completely mix with the RO/DI Freshwater is a personal preference and will vary based on what manufactuer's Synthetic Sea Salt you use as well as the Gallons Per Hour ratiing of the Water Pump used to mix it together. It normally take me about 30 minutes for water temperature and salinity grade to reflect the water parameters of the Saltwater contained withint he Nano Reef Aquarium.

Removing and Replacing Nano Reef Aquarium Water

Now this method is personal preference but to keep it short and sweet I incporaate a Python Syphon to remove Saltwater from the Nano Reef Aquarium and use to also add the newly mixed water so that I don't injure my back.


Photograph - The Python Syphon one of the most useful items ever developed for the Aquarium.
 

Jasonanatal

New Member
A More Detailed Look at Weekly Water Changes.

Hello everyone, I just thought I would go into a bit more detail on the processes that are included in the weekly water changes for my JBJ 28 gallon Nano Cube HQI SPS Reef Aquarium. As I have stated in previous post, the world of Nano Reef Aquariums is not forgiving in making honest mistakes or miscalculations which in the most minuscule amount can have devestating effects on the specimens your care for. This in turn means that I must pay careful attention to parameters of the newly mixed Saltwater as oppossed to the Saltwater already within the Nano Reef Aquarium.

Reverse Osmosis/Deionization or RO/DI Filtration

Well everything has to start somewhere and our first task is to ensure that nothing but the purist water possible can be used to in addition to a quality salt mixture. In order to do this I incorporate a Reverse Osmosis?Deionization or RO/DI Filtration System to purify the tap water coming from my bathroom faucet. Now some people might not now exactly what an RO/DI Filtration System is and how it works so here is a detailed explination. Water coming from you faucet has been chemically treated in order to bring it to any acceptable level for human consumption. Chemicals contained within the water can be anything from Flouride or Phosphates and here a kicker Arsenic. Well to be short about it their are many chemicals that vary from location to location that we do not want in our Aquariums. An RO/DI unit such as mine passes tap water at high pressures through Prefilters developed to chemically remove impurities (Carbon Prefilter) larger Solids (Sediment Prefilters and eventually extremely small solids (Reverse Osmosis Membrane) and finally removing the last amount of impurities both described as a chemical and mechanical filtration method (Deionization Canister) and into your bucket. Resulting in Freshwater that is reffered to as pure or scientifically have the least amount of Total Dissolved Solvents or TDS. Waste water is a byproduct of the filtration at a ratio of 1 gallon of purified water to an average of 4 gallons to 5 gallons of waste water which is expelled from the system at the Reverse Osmosis Membrane.

Notation: All Reverse Osmosis/Deionization Filtration Systems have a Reverse Osmosis Membrane labeled with a Gallons Per Day rating on them. This does not mean that you can leave your unit on for 24 hours and produce for example 75 gallons of Purified Freshwater on a system rate for 75 gallons per day. This means that your unit can process 75 gallons of water in that day which include both purified water in combination with waste water.



Photograph - A standard Reverse Osmosis /Deonization Filtration System with Carbon and Sediment Prefilters rated at 75 gallons per day.

In order to confirm that level of Total Dissolved Solvents of the purified water a hand held TDS Meter or Inline TDS Meter is required. This device works by measuring the electrical conductivity of the purified water by passing electrical current from one prong and receiving/measuring it at the other prong. The closer the reading is to 000 the more pure that water. This device can also ensure that your Reverse Osmosis/Deionization Filtration System is functioning properly.



Photograph - Hannah TDS Meter measuring the purity of the water.

Notation: Please ensure that your TDS Meter prongs are submerged in the water you are measuring the purity of. The photograph above was take for viewing purposes only. Also it is impossible to get the TDS Reading of saltwater so don't be alarmed if you place the TDS Meter in saltwater and the reading goes off the chart.

Mixing Synthetic Sea Salt for the Nano Reef Aquarium

Now this section is not meant to start a debate on what manufacturer of Synthetic Sea Salt will provide the optimal results for a Nano Reef Aquarium. Since I started in the Reef Keeping Hobby I was an avid Instant Ocean preffered hobbyist. But recently I have switched to Kent Marine Synthetic Sea Salt and I am quite pleased with the results so far. I measure my Kent Marine Synthetic Sea Salt at approximately 2.5 cups for 5 gallons of Freshwater which results in a Salinity Grade of 1.026 Salinity Grade or 35 Parts Per Thousand. I personally found standing at the bucket with a stick manually mixing the salt to be quite time cosuming. So I moved to a more aumated method incoporating a Mag-7 Water Pump to do the mixing for me. I also use a 200 watt Marineland Visi-therm Stealth Heater to match my Nano Reef Aquarium Water of 76 Degrees Fahrenheit and a Coralife Digital Thermometer to see when the temperature is an exact match.




Photograph - Kent Marine Synthetic Sea Salt Mix. The bag include a sealing mechanism like a Ziplock which is worth the high price itself. the seal it creates is airtight which ensure that your Synthetic Sea Salt Mix will not get clumpy from absorbing excessive moisture.



Photograph - My Pyrex measuring cup with Metric measurement for easy European measurements. Definitely comes in handy with European chemical dosing instructions.


Photograph - Beginning of mixing process.


Photograph - 10 minuts into the mixing process.


Photograph - 25 minutes into the mixing process and the Saltwater is ready for the water change.

Notation: The time allowed for the Synthetic Sea Salt to completely mix with the RO/DI Freshwater is a personal preference and will vary based on what manufactuer's Synthetic Sea Salt you use as well as the Gallons Per Hour ratiing of the Water Pump used to mix it together. It normally take me about 30 minutes for water temperature and salinity grade to reflect the water parameters of the Saltwater contained withint he Nano Reef Aquarium.

Removing and Replacing Nano Reef Aquarium Water

Now this method is personal preference but to keep it short and sweet I incporaate a Python Syphon to remove Saltwater from the Nano Reef Aquarium and use to also add the newly mixed water so that I don't injure my back.


Photograph - The Python Syphon one of the most useful items ever developed for the Aquarium.
 

Jasonanatal

New Member
New SPS Coral Frag Addition

On Saturday, December 15, 2007 I purchased a Coral Frag of Orange with White Polyp Montipora Capricornis from NaCl-H20 of the Manhattan Reefs Forum. It was dripped acclimated over a period of 2 hours and allowed 1 week before being photographed. It is honestly one of the most beautiful specimens I have seen.




Photograph - Orange with White Polyp Montipora Capricornis from NaCl-H20 of the Manhattan Reefs Forum.

Coral Family: Acroporidae
Coral Genus: Monitpora
Common Name: Montipora Capricornis
Common Morphologies: Plating
Origin: Pacific Ocean
Acquired: Saturday, December 15, 2007
Lighting Requirements: Moderate to high. Metal Halide Lighting is suggested, but these Corals are tolerant of a wide range of lighting conditions and have been known to grow successfully under Very High Output Lighting or on occassion Power Compact Flourescent Lighting.
Flow Requirements: Moderate to high flow.
Availability: High.
Growth: Fast.
Difficulty: Moderate.
 

Jasonanatal

New Member
A Sad Day In My World of Reefkeeping.

I'm extremely dedicated in the maintenance required to have a thriving Nano Reef Aquarium and it is definitely heartbreaking to come across an issue directly related to a common task in the Reek Keeping hobby. I normally don't have to clean my glass of Algae but I do so just to remove even the finest film that may adhere to the Internal Pane. I use a Mag-Float Small which is rated for use on Glass Aquariums up to 30 gallons with a maximum pane thickness of 3/16 Inch. Now at the time of my cleaning my Photoperiod had ended and the damage that was created was not noticable until the next morning. When the lights came on I could see multiple abrasive marking on the Internal Pane of the Aquarium Glass.





Photograph - Abrasive markings left behind after the use of my Mag-Float Algae Cleaner.

After a minor breakdown of sorts I reviewed some forum searches and found that scratching Nano Aquarium Glass is more common then you would think and not isolated only the JBJ 28 gallon Nano Cube HQI Aquariums. But nothing was described to be near the level of damage that I experienced. In turn I contacted Transworld Aquatic Enterprises Inc. and advised them of the situation. I explained that the possibility for a grain or multiple grains of substrate being caught between the Internal Mag-Float and the glass could not have caused the abrasive marking since the pattern clearly depicts the bottom of the Mag-Float and that I never keep my Mag-Floats within my Aquarium. The Mag-Float is also removed after use and before use I make sure that no foreign objects exist that could possibly cause something like this. After a supervisor reviewed the photographs Transworld Aquatic Enterprises Inc. advised that they are sending me a replacement Aquarium. Which is both a blessing and a curse. It is scheduled to arrive on January 07, 2008 and I will set it up shortly after.
 

Jasonanatal

New Member
New LPS Coral Frag Addition.

On Saturday, December 29, 2007 I purchased a Coral Frag of Acanthastrea Lordhowensis from NaCl-H20 of the Manhattan Reefs Forum. It was dripped acclimated over a period of 2 hours and allowed 1 week before being photographed. It is my first every LPS Coral from Australia and I have been providing it with extra attention and some tender loving care since it was the smallest piece left from the fragging of the colony.



Photograph - Completed mounting the Coral Specimen: Acanthastrea Lordhowensis to a Boston AquaFarms Reef Disc. Photograph taken Saturday December 22, 2007.


Photograph - Coral Specimen: Acanthastrea Lordhowensis after a little over one week in my Nano Reef Aquarium.

Coral Family: Mussidea
Coral Genus: Acanthastrea
Common Name: Acanthastrea Lordhowensis
Common Morphologies: Encrusting
Origin: Pacific Ocean
Acquired: Saturday, December 22, 2007
Lighting Requirements: Moderate to high. Metal Halide Lighting is suggested. These are Shallow Reef Corals so their tolerance to light will vary.
Flow Requirements: Moderate flow. Australian Acans do best under medium flow. Medium flow is considered flow that will not disturb the coral or cause the flesh to peel off.
Availability: Low.
Growth: Growth rate increases when feeding, light and flow requirements are met. If you allow this coral to be exclusively photosynthetic then growth will be slower.
Difficulty: Moderate.
 

Jasonanatal

New Member
Out with the Old In with In with the New: Elos & LaMotte Test Kits.

In my quest to achieve a striving Nano Reef Aquarium my philosophy mainly revolves around among the belief that you get back what you put into it. Now there is much debate on the accuracy of more expensive Liquid Test Kits in comparison to the less expensive and more accessible brands and this post does not provide any type of scientific information to back my particular opinion on why I choose these companies/test kits over their less expensive competitors. Both companies caught my eye since do to their use in very large and captivating Aquariums of other members of various online communities as well as the companies guidelines as to the preperation, storage and eventually sale of these quality items. Both Elos and LaMotte take pride and care in extensively documentating the shelf life and batch numbers for each test kit as my previous test kit Aquarium Pharmeceuticals Incoporated did none of that. And if a company can take the time to document even the most miniscul item then they definitely have my attention. (My wife being Italian and subecting my to the quality foods, drinks and culture of Italians had nothing to do with me selecting the Elos Liquid Test Kits).



Photograph - My new Elos Expert Line Liquid Test Kit for Phosphate (PO4) and pH. Photograph taken Friday, January 04, 2008.


Photograph - My new LaMotte Liquid Test Kits for Alkalinity (dKH) and Calcium (CA). Photograph taken Friday, January 04, 2008.
 

FLOEDOG

New Member
WHAT POWERHEAD DID YOU USE

I HAVE THE SAME TANK & CHILLER AS YOU. I REALLY HAD A TOUGH TIME GETTING MY POWERHEAD FOR MY CHILLER IN THE TANK. WHAT POWERHEAD DID YOU USE & WHERE DID YOU PLACE IT IN THE TANK?
 
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