im new to this and have never had a marine set up only tropical i have been reserching for ages im thinking of getting the nano for space and cash reasons is it really that easy to set up???i would be grateful of any advice on setting up and wot i can put in it i know fish are limited
help!!!!
- Thread starter emma75
- Start date
TimSchmidt
New Member
First off :welcome to nanotank!
Startup costs for nanos are noramlly lower but be aware that you will have to do water changes more often since there is less water involved. Most of the all in ones like nanocubes, bio cubes, and aquapods need some type of upgrading to keep a nice reef. Upgrade the pump (maxi jet 1200s are normally pretty good), upgrade the lighting, and remove all the media from the back except maybe one sponge. If you keep one sponge in then change it out every couple of days with one of the other sponges to keep them clean.
OR.... build your own nano! Either way works well. There are a lot o beautiful tanks in the nano section.
Setup is relatively easy, but it is COMPLETELY different than fresh water. Oh and just in case, for top off water use fresh RO/DI water, not more salt water.
Gobies are nice fish choices.
www.liveaquaria.com has a nanofish setion to get you started looking at fish that do well in smaller tanks. Just keep in mind there are more sites out there.
Last thing I swear :langle I moved this to the beginner area to help us keep tabs.
Startup costs for nanos are noramlly lower but be aware that you will have to do water changes more often since there is less water involved. Most of the all in ones like nanocubes, bio cubes, and aquapods need some type of upgrading to keep a nice reef. Upgrade the pump (maxi jet 1200s are normally pretty good), upgrade the lighting, and remove all the media from the back except maybe one sponge. If you keep one sponge in then change it out every couple of days with one of the other sponges to keep them clean.
OR.... build your own nano! Either way works well. There are a lot o beautiful tanks in the nano section.
Setup is relatively easy, but it is COMPLETELY different than fresh water. Oh and just in case, for top off water use fresh RO/DI water, not more salt water.
Gobies are nice fish choices.
www.liveaquaria.com has a nanofish setion to get you started looking at fish that do well in smaller tanks. Just keep in mind there are more sites out there.
Last thing I swear :langle I moved this to the beginner area to help us keep tabs.
SaltWaterNewb
Member
My advise is take it slow. Patience is key in the SW hobby.
SaltWaterNewb
Member
API liquid test kit. Inexpensive, easy to use, works great. To start you need ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. You'll need these through the cycle.
For testing salt levels you need a hydrometer or much better than that would be a refractometer. They cost more but the accuracy and ease of use more than makes up for the cost.
For testing salt levels you need a hydrometer or much better than that would be a refractometer. They cost more but the accuracy and ease of use more than makes up for the cost.
TimSchmidt
New Member
One thing I've learned is that rebuying equipment is more expensive then buying cheap stuff to replace with good stuff. My vote is just get a refractometer, quick and easy to read. I use seachem test kits, but they are a bit mad scientist like. I have a couple different regents to use and then the small testing tray makes for an easy to mess up area. The results have been consistent and as accurate as anything I've compared them to, but I have only used the one set of kits thus far. Salifert is supposed to be really good and accurate, but really expensive. API work well and will give a very quick and easy reading though. Man I'm long winded. :lol: :lol:
) SaltWaterNewb
Member
During the cycle I would test everyday or at least every other day.
TimSchmidt
New Member
I normally test after a week or two as during the first week ammonia is going up and nothing really of note is going to happen. But I don't mind waiting longer than I need to. Just fyi I noticed you said after you add water and sand. Just to be sure you should add water, sand, and rock at the same time to let the tank cycle. Be sure to leave a little bit of room for corals that come on rocks already though.
thats great, thanks for info!!can you clear something up me?as im a beginner!!some people are saying that i should connect the rock together and others are saying just build it up,whats your advice do i leave it or glue together if so what would you suggest that i do this with??can i just say you are all so very helpful ,thanks
TimSchmidt
New Member
It really is up to you. I personally have some rock that I epoxied together as I have a nice arch that I did not want falling forward and crashing into my glass. But honestly the rest of it is just stacked in a way that they will not fall. This is were you get to be creative and make the tank look like you want to. Some suggestions though. Build your rock to house the corals and fish you want. Leave some hidey holes so fish feel safe and make a couple of "baffles" to provide slow current areas and fast current areas. Also certain inhabitants may make me want to epoxy things. Engineer gobies and sand sifters tend to mess with the substrate and can help topple things over. Large snails and hermits can also sometimes muscle there way around and knock stuff over.
TimSchmidt
New Member
I only used lights for a couple of days to monitor my temperature to see if I needed any extra cooling or not. You don't need lights and that will help keep algae down (you will still get some, it gets ugly before it's pretty). For the cycle you are waiting for ammonia to spike then go to zero, then nitrite will spike then turn zero, then nitrates will rise. When you have zero ammonia, nitrite, and you are having nitrate readings you know the cycle is evening out. A good thing to read up on is the nitrogen cycle. It is constantly going on in our tanks, just we have to wait for it to balance out. If you add too much at once the cycle will spike and potentially harm inhabitants with toxic ammonia and nitrite. :cool1:
TimSchmidt
New Member
Most agree that 78-82 is fine. What ever you prefer and what you can easily maintain. I personally have my tanks at about 81. ( I feel the warmer water helps promote a higher metabolism, I'm trying to see if the tank temp will affect growth) LOL sounds like some science experiment.
TimSchmidt
New Member
Well don't glue clams, they will create these fillaments an attach themselves where ever they want (they can move by the way). But yes make sure the glue, epoxy, or whatever is aquarium safe and can cure underwater. I use an epoxy from two little fishes and it works well for me.