bulkhead size

[leaffish75]

I have friend who wants to drill his 20. he wants to do a 3/4 bulk head. is there any real draw back for that size?

 

[incysor]

3/4 is usually the return size, 1" is usually the drain size.

B

 

[drty811]

i used 1" on both, but i had both back corners drilled(one return and one overflow or vise versa) so if i had to switch sides i could. but incysor is write its usually return..

 

[perpetual98]

You typically want the drain to be able to handle more than the return. It gives you some wiggle room. If the return pumps more than the drain can handle, you get 'wet carpet syndrome'

 

[leaffish75]

one thing i found out is that a 1" hole cant drain enough to keep up with a 250gph pump

 

[incysor]

LOL...It can if you're plumbing is fairly straight.

In fact it should handle 600gph with minimal twists/turns, unless something is wrong with it.

B

 

[perpetual98]

I've got a single 1" drain in one of my 120G tanks and it easily handles my 1200GPH return pump minus head loss and a refuge split (which is just a trickle)

 

[drty811]

my 1" handles 500gph in my 20L...never had a problem. i also built a custom overflow.

 

[mikeguerrero]

Incysor,

If you can take a look at my thread on my 72 gallon, can you see how much twist I have on my return pipe? If I were to uncoil it, make it shorter, you think I will get better ratio for my Mag 12?

As of now I have a balance because I removed my chemipure bags which were slowing down the Pump; they were underneath the foam block. The return pump was pushing up the water too quickly.

I had the Mag 700 and there was no need to remove the chemipure bags. So what I did was place the two bags inside the large white filter bag thats the return for my skimmer. With that said, my water column on both sides in my sump are perfect.

Just when I read your post I thought that If I uncoiled my pipe straight, I wouldn't have had to move my chemipure bags, what do you think?

Mike

 

[incysor]

It wouldn't hurt anything to try it out. I'd say go for it.

B

 

[drty811]

i would straighten it.... the faster the better..like incysor said cant hurt

 

[mikeguerrero]

There is no straighten it, there is just cutting it. And if I cut it and make it dive down at 90 degrees, I'm scared that the flow will be too much and flood up the sump. I guess since I compromised, I'm okay.

They say in mechanics if it ain't broken, don't fix it. I guess I will leave it alone. It was just interesting to know that the flow will increase a lot if you don't coil the return.

Mike

 

[perpetual98]

Put a ball valve on the return

 

[drty811]

it wont flood cause the overflow will only allow as much water as is being pumped into the tank....the thing is , i dont think its going to make a difference anyways cause its a smooth loop and not a 90degree corner so there isnt that much restriction. the restriction is in the length.

i would have a ball valve on both just on the safe side.... like if you have to move your sump for some reason or anything else.....then there wont be any reason why youll have water on the floor.....learned from personal experience

 

[leaffish75]

i went back incysor and put spa flex hose from the top down. so i have a street 90. the durso is external and its 1.25" pvc then straight down to sump with spa flex. there is a slit bend in the tube but not even a 45 degree angle.

 

[incysor]

Then it's either your overflow itself, or the durso that's slowing things down.

A 1" bulkhead will allow 600gph through. But the plumbing on either side of the bulkhead can slow things down if it isn't set up just right.

B

 

[drty811]

im not to fond of the J style overflows JMO....i think its whats restricting your flow. i could be wrong, i have been before.