72 Oceanic Reef Ready Bow Front Evolution...
- Thread starter mikeguerrero
- Start date
aromano
New Member
This is just incredible Mike. How nice and powerful is this tank's setup!
You did an outstanding job putting it all together, and thanks for sharing the step by step pictures.
Let us know how it's working for you.
I don't know much about ORP and ozonizers, so guys please correct me if I'm wrong. I was wondering how this really works...
When organic materials start to decay in the tank, oxygen is required for this process to take place. The greater the amount of decay taking place, the more oxygen is used, so the more oxidative power the water has, the better it will be able to deal with organic materials in the tank. Therefore the greater the ORP value measured by the controller, the more oxidative power the water has to handle this process... When the controller's ORP is below a certain value, ozone can be automatically injected into the tank to increase oxygen levels.
You did an outstanding job putting it all together, and thanks for sharing the step by step pictures.
Let us know how it's working for you.
I don't know much about ORP and ozonizers, so guys please correct me if I'm wrong. I was wondering how this really works...
When organic materials start to decay in the tank, oxygen is required for this process to take place. The greater the amount of decay taking place, the more oxygen is used, so the more oxidative power the water has, the better it will be able to deal with organic materials in the tank. Therefore the greater the ORP value measured by the controller, the more oxidative power the water has to handle this process... When the controller's ORP is below a certain value, ozone can be automatically injected into the tank to increase oxygen levels.
mikeguerrero
Active Member
Andre,
I'll try giving you the simplest definition as it's much more complicated in theory but not practice.
Regulary room temperature oxygen O2 gets pulled by a ordinary air pump that pushes the air through an airdryer which collects all the moisture before it enters its next stage. This is very critical because humid air brings down the performance of an ozonizer.
Next, this dry air travels into the intake of a ozonizer; once in here an electrical discharge converts the oxygen into ozone O3.
This highly reactive gas is pushed out the exhust of the unit and sucked into a skimmer where it combines with water molecules to pull out organics by binding with them and also it destroys pathogens, ich being one.
As the ozone is in the reactor the molecules that it bonds to and the death of the pathogens is swept up the air bubbles of the skimmer and trapped in the collection cup.
What you get at the end of the skimmers output is clean oxygenated water with very low residual amounts of ozone left; you want this water to hit activated carbon before it enters the main tank.
This will assure that any residual ozone is trapped by the carbon and what enters your main tank is super high concentrated clean reef water.
Inside the aquarium is a probe that detects electrical charges and based on how oxidized your water is, will read a high ORP which stands for oxygen reduction potentional.
If the water is not clean, via polluted, its not been oxidized (aka sterilized) and the ORP is considered low (oxygen being reduced). The ORP unit can be a controller or just a meter; mine is a both a meter/conroller to shut off the ozone when the target mv is reached. Too high of an ORP can be bad because it can sterilize your water beyond the ability of your organisms to take and synthesize sea water.
Most reefers will shoot for 370 to 400 mv with Ozone keeping you there. Some tanks can get to 320 mv without the aid of ozone.
If anything nano users can pick up an ORP meter, they are not expensive and you can watch your ORP in your nano; this is a valueable tool to have for the nano fanatics.
MG
I'll try giving you the simplest definition as it's much more complicated in theory but not practice.
Regulary room temperature oxygen O2 gets pulled by a ordinary air pump that pushes the air through an airdryer which collects all the moisture before it enters its next stage. This is very critical because humid air brings down the performance of an ozonizer.
Next, this dry air travels into the intake of a ozonizer; once in here an electrical discharge converts the oxygen into ozone O3.
This highly reactive gas is pushed out the exhust of the unit and sucked into a skimmer where it combines with water molecules to pull out organics by binding with them and also it destroys pathogens, ich being one.
As the ozone is in the reactor the molecules that it bonds to and the death of the pathogens is swept up the air bubbles of the skimmer and trapped in the collection cup.
What you get at the end of the skimmers output is clean oxygenated water with very low residual amounts of ozone left; you want this water to hit activated carbon before it enters the main tank.
This will assure that any residual ozone is trapped by the carbon and what enters your main tank is super high concentrated clean reef water.
Inside the aquarium is a probe that detects electrical charges and based on how oxidized your water is, will read a high ORP which stands for oxygen reduction potentional.
If the water is not clean, via polluted, its not been oxidized (aka sterilized) and the ORP is considered low (oxygen being reduced). The ORP unit can be a controller or just a meter; mine is a both a meter/conroller to shut off the ozone when the target mv is reached. Too high of an ORP can be bad because it can sterilize your water beyond the ability of your organisms to take and synthesize sea water.
Most reefers will shoot for 370 to 400 mv with Ozone keeping you there. Some tanks can get to 320 mv without the aid of ozone.
If anything nano users can pick up an ORP meter, they are not expensive and you can watch your ORP in your nano; this is a valueable tool to have for the nano fanatics.
MG
mikeguerrero
Active Member
My air dryer by Red Sea arrived today. I decided to go with the 500g version since I didn't want to change out the beads so often.
The connection is easy and I was able to plug and play within minutes. The unit looks of high quality construction and well worth the money I paid for it.
I hope to see the ORP go above my highest reading 387 mv.
Here are some pictures of my air dryer and where I placed it in my cabinet:
Mike G
The connection is easy and I was able to plug and play within minutes. The unit looks of high quality construction and well worth the money I paid for it.
I hope to see the ORP go above my highest reading 387 mv.
Here are some pictures of my air dryer and where I placed it in my cabinet:
Mike G
mikeguerrero
Active Member
Well,
It's time to report in to my ozone fans; I'm proud to say that my ozone has gotten to 408 mv with ozone.
My controller shuts it off about 390 and then it cruises to the 400+ range and stays there all night and into the morning.
My tank is becomming more stable with each passing day and my critters and corals are happy.
Just can't believe how clear the tank looks, you guys and gals need to get those ozone units up and running.
In an attempt to farm more macros, I got rid of my large filter socks and placed in two streamline versions and added an additional 18 watts coralife 6700K.
Nuff said...
It's time to report in to my ozone fans; I'm proud to say that my ozone has gotten to 408 mv with ozone.
My controller shuts it off about 390 and then it cruises to the 400+ range and stays there all night and into the morning.
My tank is becomming more stable with each passing day and my critters and corals are happy.
Just can't believe how clear the tank looks, you guys and gals need to get those ozone units up and running.
In an attempt to farm more macros, I got rid of my large filter socks and placed in two streamline versions and added an additional 18 watts coralife 6700K.
Nuff said...
mikeguerrero
Active Member
Small update...
About 12:43 am my ORP is at 412 mv. If I feed phyto or flakes it drops immediately about 10 to 20 mv.
Here is the pic:
About 12:43 am my ORP is at 412 mv. If I feed phyto or flakes it drops immediately about 10 to 20 mv.
Here is the pic:
Jordan8008
New Member
This is probably one of the nicest setups ive seen but i have a question, I am not exactly a noob but whats that air dryer for, i understand it drys air, but for what, what purpose doest it serve in your system.....anyways again nice setup and nice pics om
om
aromano
New Member
That's an interesting fact to show that, by adding food into the tank the oxidative power the water slightly decreases, and the controller is precise enough to compensate with ozone until those values are back to normal.mikeguerrero said:
Thanks for sharing Mike. The setup is looking awesome, and your tank must be healthier than ever. ;-)
mikeguerrero
Active Member
Ozone users,
Watching my tank last night creep up to 412 mv, I stayed around for just a bit longer before going to bed. I saw it reach 424 mv then I called it a night.
This morning I wake up wondering where my I might be at? I open the cabinet door and see my ORP at 425 mv.
I was pleased to see it hadn't raised any higher than this, as I'm new to the ozone deal and don't know if I'm at a good target zone or not.
I then proceeded to feed my fish flakes and pellets; my ORP dropped to 414 mv.
Here are the pics:
This one is just before I went to bed last night
This one is at 8:30 am following morning
This one is 5 minutes after feeding flakes and pellets
Watching my tank last night creep up to 412 mv, I stayed around for just a bit longer before going to bed. I saw it reach 424 mv then I called it a night.
This morning I wake up wondering where my I might be at? I open the cabinet door and see my ORP at 425 mv.
I was pleased to see it hadn't raised any higher than this, as I'm new to the ozone deal and don't know if I'm at a good target zone or not.
I then proceeded to feed my fish flakes and pellets; my ORP dropped to 414 mv.
Here are the pics:
This one is just before I went to bed last night
This one is at 8:30 am following morning
This one is 5 minutes after feeding flakes and pellets
aromano
New Member
Mike do you feed any type of frozen foods at all, or just flakes and pellets?
I feed my fish a combination of pellets and formula 2 + prime reef + mysis shrimp frozen food soaked with selcon and kent garlic.
I've read that juices from frozen foods are like rocket fuel for nuisance algae!
I always strain and discard the pack juices from thawed frozen foods, but I was wondering if the food might be big contributor to the nuisance algae growth, even though I'm not over feeding.
P.S. Post a pict of your open brain when you get a chance.
I feed my fish a combination of pellets and formula 2 + prime reef + mysis shrimp frozen food soaked with selcon and kent garlic.
I've read that juices from frozen foods are like rocket fuel for nuisance algae!
I always strain and discard the pack juices from thawed frozen foods, but I was wondering if the food might be big contributor to the nuisance algae growth, even though I'm not over feeding.
P.S. Post a pict of your open brain when you get a chance.
mikeguerrero
Active Member
Andre,
I do have frozen mysis and formula two in my frig but it's old and I haven't fed my fish any for about 1 month.
I keep to formula two flakes the green ones and small sinking pellets, they love it.
I do have kent marines zoo plankton and phytomax but I haven't fed since getting the ozone unit up.
It will be interesting to see what it goes to as I feed it...
I will be photographing my red open brain tonight or on the weekend, all week I've been busy at work and getting home late, lights are off. :evil:
He is beautiful more colorful than my red blastos.
MG
I do have frozen mysis and formula two in my frig but it's old and I haven't fed my fish any for about 1 month.
I keep to formula two flakes the green ones and small sinking pellets, they love it.
I do have kent marines zoo plankton and phytomax but I haven't fed since getting the ozone unit up.
It will be interesting to see what it goes to as I feed it...
I will be photographing my red open brain tonight or on the weekend, all week I've been busy at work and getting home late, lights are off. :evil:
He is beautiful more colorful than my red blastos.
MG
mikeguerrero
Active Member
Rmanecke,
The lights rest on a pair of legs that came with the fixture. If I were to guess, I'd say they rest six inches off the glass.
Feel free to chime in whenever, and I'll post back.
By the way, I've seen your thread and I'm already impressed with what you are putting together, you have a very clean system going.
MG
The lights rest on a pair of legs that came with the fixture. If I were to guess, I'd say they rest six inches off the glass.
Feel free to chime in whenever, and I'll post back.
By the way, I've seen your thread and I'm already impressed with what you are putting together, you have a very clean system going.
MG
mikeguerrero
Active Member
Last night before going to bed I check the ORP and it was at 404 and climbing...
So this morning I wake up to check out the ORP and it's at 425.
I feed flakes and small pellets and my ORP drops to 409...
This is two days straight that my tank hits 425 and holds it there all night and all morning.
I don't know what happens during the light period since my lights fire up at 12 pm and I'm at work. This weekend will be the first time I'll be able to monitor my ORP with Ozone.
I'm just confident that I did it right, I waited the time I was suppose to with the controller and then I added the Ozone very light. 15 mg, then 25 mg, then finally 50 mg.
I've dialed back to 25 mg, since I've heard it doesn't take much to keep your ORP once it's that high.
Regarding how clear my tank is, you'd be surprised, it literally looks like the old days when your mom or dad would help you clean your goldfish bowl.
Remember how clear it would be the very second the water went in and you stared at it for hours.
It's that clear, may I say crystal clear.
Guys, once you get your ORP where you want it, your tank should do the rest, if buffered right, the ORP is going to hold around that area.
I have a high quality skimmer by Deltec and my ORP being so high, the skimmer is not pulling nothing.
There is nothing to clean...
I have noticed that during the feeding period it takes about 30 minutes to an hour and the skimmer fires back up pulling just what I have added then it stops skimming.
The skimmate is more black than before, I'll have to take a picture of that.
I'm really impressed how efficient ozone and a good skimmer can work to keep your tank healthy.
MG
So this morning I wake up to check out the ORP and it's at 425.
I feed flakes and small pellets and my ORP drops to 409...
This is two days straight that my tank hits 425 and holds it there all night and all morning.
I don't know what happens during the light period since my lights fire up at 12 pm and I'm at work. This weekend will be the first time I'll be able to monitor my ORP with Ozone.
I'm just confident that I did it right, I waited the time I was suppose to with the controller and then I added the Ozone very light. 15 mg, then 25 mg, then finally 50 mg.
I've dialed back to 25 mg, since I've heard it doesn't take much to keep your ORP once it's that high.
Regarding how clear my tank is, you'd be surprised, it literally looks like the old days when your mom or dad would help you clean your goldfish bowl.
Remember how clear it would be the very second the water went in and you stared at it for hours.
It's that clear, may I say crystal clear.
Guys, once you get your ORP where you want it, your tank should do the rest, if buffered right, the ORP is going to hold around that area.
I have a high quality skimmer by Deltec and my ORP being so high, the skimmer is not pulling nothing.
There is nothing to clean...
I have noticed that during the feeding period it takes about 30 minutes to an hour and the skimmer fires back up pulling just what I have added then it stops skimming.
The skimmate is more black than before, I'll have to take a picture of that.
I'm really impressed how efficient ozone and a good skimmer can work to keep your tank healthy.
MG