265 Gallon Mixed Reef

MH_Courtney

New Member
Hi Everyone! I just wanted to introduce myself, my name is Courtney and I have been in this hobby for 2+ years and my fiance has been in the hobby for over 7 years. We have a 265 gallon mixed reef that is about 1 year old. It started with the contents of a 75 gallon and we have been slowly trying to fill in all the extra space. It is amazing how a coral that can look like a huge colony in a 75 can look like a frag in a 265! The tank was started with overdriven T-5 bulbs and a few months ago we converted one side to LEDs so we could compare the T-5s and the LEDs. We just finished converting the rest of the fixture and we are very excited about the LEDs.

Here is a little background information on our system. The display is a 265 gallon glass tank (7' x 2' x 31") and the sump is a 30 gallon glass tank. We run 2 MP40 vortechs on reef crest 100% as well as the return pump for flow. Lighting is 72 three watt LEDs, 36 Cree Royal Blues and 36 Rebel Luxeon Whites. The Blues have 40 degree optics and the Whites have 60 degree optics. They are driven by 6 dimmable Meanwell drivers and we have a potentiometer for each color to control them. We run a protein skimmer and filter sock for filtration and I do a 10 gallon daily water change with Tropic Marin Pro Reef Salt. We do not use any reactors of any kind, we rely on the water changes and a very small amount of Tropic Marin Bio-Calcium and Tropic Marin Bio-Magnesium daily to maintain our parameters. That about sums up the equipment side of our system, we try to keep things simple and effective and have found these methods give excellent results.

The livestock in the tank is still a work in progress. Some of the fish we currently have are a Powder Blue Tang, Yellow Tang, Female Crosshatch Trigger, Copper banded Butterfly, Filefish, a mated pair of Yellow Assessors, a mated pair of Maroon Gold Stripe Clownfish and several others. We still have quite a fish wish list for the tank that we are slowly working on. Corals are mostly SPS and just to name a few: ORA Joe the Coral, ORA Frogskin, Nathan's Green Milliepora, Idaho Grape Monticap, Orange Setosa, Orange Digitata, ORA Green Digitata and many other SPS frags. The LPS we have are mostly different acan lords with a few chalices as well as a basketball size colony of Purple Tip Frogspawn. The only soft corals we have are zoanthids and palythoas some of which include Red People Eaters, Candy Apple Reds and Armor of Gods to name a few.

Some daily maintenance that I do on the tank includes the 10 gallon water change, dosing the Tropic Marin Bio-Calcium and Bio-Magnesium and feeding a variety of frozen foods to the fish and corals. The fish also receive dry pellets in an auto feeder twice a day. I change the filter sock every other day and clean the skimmer collection cup and test the water parameters once a week and clean the glass as needed.

I think that about sums up everything with the tank. We try to keep everything as simple as possible and have definitely seen some amazing growth. I am very excited to see in a year or so how much more mature it will look as everything grows and fills in more.

Here are a few pictures, the full tank shot is from May 2010 and many of the coral shots are from August 2010. These pictures are all with full T-5s on the tank. I will be posting more recent pictures soon so that everyone can see how it looks with the LEDs.








 

MH_Courtney

New Member
I don’t think I ever explained the water change system on this tank. I have a 20 gallon high tank that is gravity fed through a solenoid to the sump of the 265. I have a heater and powerhead in the water change tank and I add salt to this tank every day after I do a water change. The water change has gotten a bit more complex since we added our frag system but I will talk more about that in another thread. I drain 10 gallons from the sump through a hose and then I flip a switch and 10 fresh gallons drains from the water change tank into the sump. The water change tank is automatically filled through a solenoid off the RO/DI unit and float switches. Having this automated system makes doing water changes a piece of cake and actually possible. I can't imagine how long it would take me to do a 10 gallon water change a day if I had to manually fill buckets.
 

MH_Courtney

New Member
So I haven't had time to take any new pictures but here are some old ones I was digging through today. A few are a little more recent but everything is still with the T-5s. I figure these should work as growth shots as well. I think the only more recent one I included is a purple/green chalice (supposed to be a watermelon but I don't have any lineage on it) and I included a growth shot with it. The first pic is from end of August and the other pic is from the middle of February.



Yellow torch

Copper banded butterfly

Green Millie

Green Slimer and Xenia

Hairy Mushroom

Female Maroon Gold Strip Clown

Midas Blenny

Mixed Zoos

Acan

Orange Digi

Acan

Sun Coral

Female Crosshatch Trigger

Xenia

Yellow Tang
 

MH_Courtney

New Member
So I finally got a chance to take some pictures last night. I am stilling trying to figure the camera out so bear with me. I was finally starting to get decent pictures with the T-5s and now the LEDs are harder to get good pictures because there is definitely a lot more shadowing in the tank. I used the tripod for the first time last night and what a difference. I don't know how I ever got any decent pictures without it. A little bit harder to use the tripod for the fish but I was getting a much better ratio of good to bad pictures. I got 3 good pictures of the Powder Blue in one night where normally I am lucky to 1 good fish picture in about 5 nights worth.

Anyway on to the pictures. There is definitely a noticeable difference with the LEDs versus the T-5s when you look straight on at the tank. I am starting to get used to the black bars because of the braces but in pictures it looks terrible. I will say that up until a few days ago I was still doubting the LEDs. You know what they say, if it ain't broke don't fix it. The T-5s were working fine and we were getting good color and growth. However….since switching to full LEDs I am seeing even better polyp extension then I have ever seen before. Also several of my acans that were a little plain looking are starting to morph with some greens and yellows. Only time will tell for the long term but the results I am seeing already definitely has me convinced that it was a good switch not only for money and energy savings but for coral growth and color as well.

Powder Blue Tang


Midas Blenny in his hole


Blue Green Tort
This one doesn't appear to have grown a lot from the previous shot I have of it but I fragged off the larger right branch and I now have a frag almost the size of this colony in my frag tank.


Chromis


Frogspawn


Green Torch


Hairy Mushrooms
As you can see from further up there has been a lot of growth here


ORA Joe the Coral
This has so much polyp extension you can barely see the skeleton, the difference in polyp extension in this picture compared to the previous one is insane.


Orange Digitata


Powder Blue Tang



RBTA and Clowns
Not sure if you can really appreciate the size of this RBTA but the hammer next to it is a 4 headed frag and the clowns are 2" and 5". This is the easier one to see but you will see in the full tank shot that there are 2 in the tank and the other one is about the same size but most of it is behind the rock.


Acan


Full Tank Shot 3-9-11
Not quite head on, too much stuff in the way for the tripod but I will try not to be so lazy next time.
The colors are tad bit off in some of these, the color in the FTS are pretty accurate though.


Center


Left Side


Right Side
 

MH_Courtney

New Member
mikeguerrero said:
What is your like/dislike on sandbeds?
We decided to go bare-bottom for both the display and the fuge. Our thoughts are that unless you go with a deep sand bed there really isn't any advantage to sand. Sand does look nice but we didnt want the hassle of a DSB and a thin layer of sand would end up blowing around and settling on corals. If a frag falls on the sand bed in the morning it could be rtn'ed or at least fairly damaged by the time you can get home from work. If a frag falls on the glass bottom you just pick it up and everyone is fine. Those are just our thoughts and I know everyone has there own opinion and what works for them. This works for us, our tank stays very stable and we never have a nitrate or phosphate problem. I feed our fish and corals very heavily and I never see nitrates over 1. Also by not having a sand bed I can see any detritus building up and remove it instead of it laying on the sand bed and not knowing it is there.
 

MH_Courtney

New Member
I took a few more quick pictures of the tank this afternoon.

Full tank shot




Pink Birdsnest


Green Ricordia


Green Torch


Acan starting to morph under LEDs


Gold Assessor
We have a spawning pair of these guys.


Green Star Polyps


Hairy Mushroom


Orange Digi


Crosshatch Trigger
This is her favorite spot


Chalice


Maroon Clownfish Female


Idaho Grape Monticap


Copperbanded Butterfly


Xenia
 
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