1st salt tank

phm2010

New Member
hi im starting a 10 gallon and i need to know all the things i need to put in it power heads, filters, rock ext...
thanks phm2010
 

brandon

New Member
Hey and welcome to nanotanks! :mrgreen:

first off, what kind of budget are you on?
are you going to take any shortcuts?
 

TimSchmidt

New Member
A saltwater tank can have quite a few different setups depending on what you want to keep in it. If you have an idea of what you want we can help you better. Right now I'd suggest using the search function to find some other setup ideas.

:welcome to Nanotank!
 

reefman23

New Member
Welcome to nanotank.com!! It is great to see people get involved in this hobby at a young age!

I too suggest that you figure out some sort of budget and look at the various tanks on this site and others to get an idea of what YOU want. When you figure out those things, we can help you out a little more.

Of course the basics are some sort of base rock or live rock, some form of aragonite sand, some form of mechanical and/or chemical filtration (many prefer skimmers and refugiums for filtration), water movement via pumps and/or powerheads, heater, and of course lighting. many of these things are dependent on what you want to keep.

hope that helps,

Jesse
 

islandcreation

New Member
phm2010,

:welcome Yeah, like Tim said read the forum to get an idea. When I started I kind of knew I was going to upgrade so I keep all the boxes for my nano tank. So my nano was my experiement tank to see weather or not I'd succeed... I did so I got a 66 gallon tank now. Again it all depends on your budget... If you kind of know that your going to upgrade down the line it doesn't hurt to by items that would be beneficial for a bigger tank example Skimmer, moonlights that can have add ons, heater, powerhead those are the most common... we could get more expensive as you read this whole forum and see cool tanks but thats the basic! Have fun... :mrgreen:
 

phm2010

New Member
i know ill want polups and aninmes
ill need blue leged hermits
firefish
basselet
emerald crab
thats it for now
phm2010
 

JeffDubya

New Member
Anemones can be difficult to keep, even in a larger tank.

One thing that can be difficult about keeping a marine tank is knowing your limitations. Your size, lighting and filtration can all be determining factors. Sucks, but knowing what NOT to buy is nearly as important as what TO buy.

There's a ton of information out there. But this site is a great resource.
 

JeffDubya

New Member
Also, what you keep will determine what fish to purchase. For example, I am having to stay away from angels because they will apparently nip at my soft corals. :( Also many fish can be difficult to keep or may require a much larger tank size.

There is a book called "Pocket Guide to Marine Fishes" by Scott Michael. I think there is a companion book for invertebrates.

If you want the LOOK of an anemone, you can get that with several different types of corals, including frogspawn and hammer. I just bought a nice frogspawn specimen for this reason.

I would really like to have an anemone. But... they are extremely sensitive and easily killed. When they die they really can foul up a tank. With a 10 gallon tank, that means every living thing in it could be wiped out rather quckly.

Also, anemones move around, just like starfish do. This means they can get into powerheads and/or mess with your polyps. Corals are nicer because they stay put.

I have been told that "Bubble Tip" anemones are easier to keep than most, but at the end of the day, based on the advice I got from a lot of people who know a lot more than I do - and whom I have a great deal of respect for, I decided to NOT try them out.

http://www.vividaquariums.com/10Expand. ... 02-1515-10

In the final decision, you may buy one or more, and you might be able to make them work.
 

TimSchmidt

New Member
phm2010 said:
i know ill want polups and aninmes
ill need blue leged hermits
firefish
basselet
emerald crab
thats it for now
phm2010
I would personally start with the polyps, blue legged hermits, firefish and the emerald crab. Then you can add in a coral at a time when you learn how to properly care for it. Take your time with purchases and see if all your tank inhabitants can co-exist well. For the ten gallon tank, one of the easiest and cheapest setups I would suggest would be:

10 All Glass Aquarium

Glass lid (Firefish can jump out of tanks)

AC 70 for a refuge/water movement/filtration
http://www.nanotank.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1307

An extra power head for water movement

Live Rock and Live Sand

Stealth heater (either 50W or 75W, depends if it gets REAL cold in the winter where you are at)

And finally the light...I light the Current Orbit 80W 20" fixture. It has three power cords so you can control your lighting if you want, separate actinic and sunpaq bulbs, and two moon lights included. But I got it on sale for $100.00

I think that should do it and get you started with a very nice first tank. Others may suggest a more economical light, but I only have experience with the one I listed.
 

phm2010

New Member
im getting a fluger powerhead
and a biowheel filter
ill check out the other stuff
it gets down to zero in the winter were i live
phm2010
 

JeffDubya

New Member
Keep in mind that the *brand* of the power head is far less important than the GPH. What size were you thinking about?

Your flow should be a *minimum* of 100 GPH with that size tank.

as my good buddy SkipM told me, "the 10x turnover rate is a minimum, rule of thumb. Corals like SPSs like more flow and are quite happy in tanks with 40-50x turnover rate."

Personally, I have a combined total flow of 720 GPH, roughly 25x.
 

JeffDubya

New Member
phm2010 said:
why not a bio wheel
Why not just use LR for biological filtration?

There are some types of filters that are designed to help the bacteria grow. These filters are generally called "biological filters". The two most popular types are undergravel filters (UGF), and Bio-Wheel filters.

Bio-Wheel filters use a paddle-wheel assembly to provide oxygen to the bacteria. The wheels are positioned in the outflow of a specially designed power filter. The wheel is in the water part of the time, and in the air part of the time. As long as the wheel is spinning, the bacteria are alive. A well-cultured wheel will be heavy and brown. DO NOT CLEAN IT! Once again, you would kill all the bacteria that took months to develop.
 

reefman23

New Member
phm2010 said:
why not a bio wheel
Because bio-wheels... and bio-balls, ceramic rings, etc... break down nitrates at a rate that is inappropriate for reef tanks and can actually lead to higher nitrates/nitrites. They are also unable to house anaerobic bacterias... LIve rock houses both aerobic and anaerobic bacterias.

Hope that helps somewhat.

Jesse
 

little urchin

New Member
and the anaerobic bacteria which only grows where water moves very slowly throgh the media (live rock/deep sand bed) is the stuff which completes the nitrogen cycle, and breakes nitrates down to harmless nitrogen gas
 
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