ExiledInfidel666
New Member
whats the difference, I found that it says with a 20000k MH you don't need blue actinics?, im figreing that the 20000k is a brighter white but some carols need actinics, I dont konw someone clear this up for me please
10000k, 20000k
- Thread starter ExiledInfidel666
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A 20k bulb has a blue tint to it, which is why you don't need actinics with them, since they are built in so to speak. Some people don't like this bluish color, but you really don't notice it unless you have been running whiter bulbs. Some just look better than others. I like Aqualine-Buschke brand, or AB best. The AB 10k actually has a color temperature of 13,000 Kelvin if you wanted less blue. I've been running AB 20k 250w double ended bulbs on all my tanks now for quite some time now with no problems and no actinics. Growth of SPS is good and coloring of wild caught acro's and captive raised also have been good.
ExiledInfidel666
New Member
I was actually looking at the low profile reef star with the 14,000k, I love the blue tinge just as long as its not JUST blue actinics, what would be about equivilent or even slightly bluer then the usa orbit lighting with the dual daylight and dual actinics, its for a 35-40g hex so I figured the 250w would look great because I also want to keep ever type of coral and maybe a clam
If you allow one light per a 2'x2' area, you can't go wrong. I think you could run a 14k bulb without actinics just fine, as you could with some of the 10k's (just check the Kelvin ratings first). With 250w MH, you can keep any light loving corals you want up to a tank depth of about 24". Double ended fixtures are definely the way to go if you want the most "bang for your buck". They are not that much more expensive, and give the most intense light. In fact, with some bulb, reflector combos, the intensity rivals 400w single ended bulbs!
ExiledInfidel666
New Member
yea its a double ended, Im thinking about the 14,000k 250w MH reef star lamp over the 50g oceanic, the tank is almost a cube, its about 20" back, 26" wide, 26" tall or something like that, you get the idea, its anout 250 w/ stand, put it with a nice wet dry and small fuge and maybe a small power filter that will hang on the side of the wet dry just to polish the water, that will make a nice not quite nano 
ExiledInfidel666
New Member
so make a big 20g high fuge with a skimmer placed in a section before it? sounds good to me but I need something for mechanical filtration still, any ideas?
ExiledInfidel666
New Member
well I dont want to do drilling with a tube because if the power gos out I have a over flow problem, if anyone knows how to correct this let me know, id like to put a hole at the bottem and mid for drain if I could so let my know
Exiled, I'm not understanding what it is you're wanting to do. You're talking about having a wet/dry. A lot of people don't like them, but I have no issues with them. My large system is using a wet/dry and has been ever since it was set up. Hillbilly was suggesting a filter sock someplace on your overflow line to the wet/dry. Up until then I was clear, but then you started talking about not drilling and you lost me. Are you going to have a drain in the bottom of your tank? If so you simply add an overflow box siliconed around it and your water will only drain to the top of the box. If you don't want a box, and a drain in the bottom then you're probably asking for problems. The only way to stop the tank from draining at that point is check valves, but they have a horrible reputation becuase they tend to fail.
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Also remember that a 20k will look (and is) dimmer than a 10k. It will put out less par. To counteract this (if you want to do a 20k), you would probably double the wattage. Let's say for instance a 250, you would want to do a 400 20k instead. You have the same level of par and then some, plus the blue feel.
Another option is to do a 14/15k bulb. This offers just enough blue for people and still maintains par.
Another option is to do a 14/15k bulb. This offers just enough blue for people and still maintains par.