10 gallon Hex ??

[arejay]

I have some experience w/saltwater, I have a 12gal AquaPod. It is up, running. and I love it.

I love it so much, I need more. I have a 10gallon hex that was at one time a FW tank. I has a stand, but nothing else.

As with most of us, the budget is limited, so here's where I need some help. What equipment will I need to get this tank started? I plan on building a framework to affix the LR to. It should go quite near the top. If I do this could I have coral in the more shallow parts of the tank with inexpensive lighting?

I look forward to any advice you may be able to give ,

Thanks,

—RJ

 

[Ritsuko N]

Given its size this tank could be a bit of a challange, but here is where I would go with it...


For filtration I would get an Aqua-Clear 20.

For a heater I would suggest a 25 watt model as that should prove adequate unless you live some place really cold.

For lighting ...I cant find such a hex tank really quick off hand so I have no idea what light would fit or how deep the tank is. I would most likely spring For the added cost and get a Viper 70 watt clamp on HQI with a 12-14K lamp. Thats not exactly budget I know, but I think that would be the best route to go.

I would cut a piece of acrylic the inside size of the tank and add a 1/2 in acrilyic rod and drill my live rock with a half in bit and then slide the rod through the hole in the live rock to create a prymid shaped rock pile in the middle of the tank. I would then work my corals around this plugging them in or glueing them in as needed.

Because of the challanges this shape of tank this small would create I think I would just head down to Wally World and pick up a 10 gallon tank for a whopping 11.00 bucks, use the same equipment I suggested and just toss in 10-15 lbs of live rock and get a Quad 4 96 watt PC fixture from www.hellolights.com and call it a done deal. If thats too much to spend on a light then head down to DeathCo or DeathMart and get one of those single tube 15 watt lights fixture/hoods for about 26.00 and swap the bulb for a 10,000k 50/50 and call her done.

Now before the lighting police jump in and cry foul, I set up just such a tank from junk I had laying around just to prove a point that it could be done although this light does leave a bit to be desired. In a tank that shallow I was alble to do Mushrooms, Xenia, Zoanthids, Kenya Tree corals and even a Torch Coral Frag that was a half dead freebie from the LFS...It now has three healthy heads on it 6 months later and I started with one half dead head! When you have more fun dollars you can up grade to a dual 40 watt PC or Quad-4 96 watt PC making most corals possible.

In fact I have documented this tank build up and will be featuring it in a budget how to article at the forum where I moderate

Just some food for thought...

 

[davenia7]

Being an owner of multiple hexes that have been SW converted at one time or another, I also suggest getting a standard 10 gal. at Wally world.
Hexes are nice for their footprint and with a FW tank, they can be workable, but they are darn challenging to get into to fix coral placements, or just vacuum sand. I now have a standard 10 instead of the Hex 5 and life is much easier.
My hex2 is still plaguing me, and until I can convince my bf to get a standard 2 1/2 for his desk, it isn't going anywhere.
Hexes are wonderful for FW, but a might bit challenging in SW.

 

[Ritsuko N]

I have to concur with what davenia7 has posted. These challanges she mentioned will definitely wear on you sooner or later. For 11.00 bucks a 10 gallon tank is just too cheap of a solution to many of these issues and offers so much more in the way of possibilities.

If we were talking about a 30 gallon plus hex then I would most likely come down on a different side of the fence. I have seen some absolutely stunning Hex tanks in this size that are beyond discription using the english language, or any other languge for that matter. The smaller tanks just present too many complications to really make them all that viable.

I would keep your small hex tank around and use it for a QT tank if you dont already have one. A QT tank is a piece of often over looked item of equipment I consider neccessary. Its a great way to treat sick fish, new arrivals and prevent pest from entering your display. This seems like a waste of resources but I assure you the first time you get a case of the "bad nasties" you will forever more appreciate the practice of QT tanks and USING them!

 

[arejay]

Thank you all for the advice.

Call it masochistic, but I think I may be stuck on using the hex. Not that I wouldn't love a standard 10gal, but my goal is to use the hex for something fun.

The clip-on lighting seems to be the most reasonable, but some of the pendants out there look really nice.

I don't know what all the letters and numbers mean, but I guess I'll head over to the lighting section of the forum for some more help.

Thanks again.

—RJ

 

[Ritsuko N]

Which letters and numbers did you not quiet understand or figure out?

HQI = Double Ended Halide Bulb

12-14k = 12,000 or 14,000 Kelvin Bulb

Kelvin = Measurement used to rate a bulbs color temperature. The higher the number the "cooler" the bulb i said to be and the more light in the blue spectrum that will be produced. Used on all bulbs regardless of type.

6,500k Is the near noon color temp. It has a lot of red and yellow to the light and provides the fastest coral growth. Its also conducive to algae growth too. Corals kept under this light will also have a tendency to "brown or green out" and more colorful specimens will often have its brilliant colors fade to an extent.

10,000k This bulb normally produces a good crisp white light, that may have a slight yellow tint to it or a hint of blue tint to it depending on the brand.

12,000k This color temp bulb will often be whitish-blue. Sorta like an arc from a arc welder.

14,000 or 15,000k Bulbs of this color temp will be more blue in color than white.

20,000k Is a deep rich blue in color and is great for simulating deep water biotopes. Under this type of light the colors in corals will really "pop" as if they were under a black light.

* The cooler the bulb temp the less PAR (or brightness) the bulb has. On Bulbs cooler in temp than 12,000k will often neccessitate the need to step up in wattage to achieve the same or simular level of PAR on a tank. For example...A 150/175 watt 10K halide works great over a 55 gallon tank. No should you opt for a 20,000K bulb then one will often step up to a 250 watt fixture and bulb if not a 400 watt fixture. Depth of the tank and corals being kept will be a mitigating factor.

PC = Power Compact

QT = Quarantine Tank

 

[arejay]

Thanks for the definitions. I never knew that lighting could be so involved. I have much to learn, thankfully this seems an excellent place to do just that!

—RJ

 

[Ritsuko N]

Salt Water tanks in general are pretty complicated and involved and generally require a good bit of knowledge if your going to be successful at it long term. This is why prior research is so important and often preached.

I have been "playing the game" for several years now. I had a great mentor when I first started that I asked so many questions, I cant believe they didnt jump across the desk and choke me to death for asking yet another question! (Im sure the thought was there though...) I have read just about every book out there I can find and spent untold hours researching this or that. I have spent a lot of time on the 'net skimming over info at various other forums. I also Moderate at another forum and as such probably spend at least a hour or two a day reseaching stuff and I am still learning everyday. The more you learn, the quicker you realize how much you dont know!!! :shock:

There are more angles to a reef tank than you can shake a stick at. Lighting is just one small little aspect in the scheme of things. Water Chemistry is yet another "deep subject". They say its the little things that kill and when it comes to reef tanks the thing that seperates a "run of the mill" tank from a jaw dropping master piece is the finer details and a lot of time prefecting it.

The up side is, that there is a lot of talent here, so take advantage of it!

 

[reing7299]

Those definitions are definately helpful. Thanks for the breakdown on lighting always been something i scratch my head about when reading.

 

[funkngroovy]

I'll give you my 2 cents worth as well. I have been setting up a 15 Gal Cube with a rear overflow. I have used egg crate type plastic to form a framework for the LR. My aim was to replicate a rising reef and use the framework to place the LR like steps to the top of the tank where most of my coral will be placed. This way, I do not need to spend a ton of $$ on LR that will build the reef and I have a big area behind the reef as a lower current section for little critters. the total cost of aquascaping so far is only $60. The advantage to being able to easily place frags near the top of the tank on near flat surface is that I have not needed to buy expensive lighting. Will post photos when it is looking a bit better.

 

[TimSchmidt]

I have one of those 10 gallon hexes and my plans were to drill the bottom. I plan on having the tank in a kind of basin and create a zero edge tank. the water would be pushed up through the tank and over the edge back into the sump. Ball valves and a check valve would be the only think keeping the tank from draining. It's not up yet but that will be in my loft by next year I'm sure A 70 watt MH pendant at about 14-20k should do nicely. Just some ideas (clean look too if I can pull it off). Here is something like what I'm trying to explain.

 

[reing7299]

aren't you worried about critters going over the edge? or is a reef only tank?

 

[TimSchmidt]

Reef only is the plan. Plus slower flow rate. I'm going to try and not even "feed" the tank. I'm not sure how plausible that is, but I will have to research for corals that are solely photosynthetic.

 

[reing7299]

okay that would definately be really cool. good luck getting it going.

 

[TimSchmidt]

I will start a new thread when that build begins.

Arejay, how is it coming along with the tank?