While searching thoroughly online should get you every single answer you could possibly need to get into this hobby, having a book right next to you with step-by-step instructions on reef keeping is VERY handy. It'll save you time by not forcing you to comb through forums and wait days for responses here online. I recommend "The New Marine Aquarium" by Paletta.
THEN again, if you have the time to wait for replies, I'm sure everyone here is more than willing to answer every single one of your questions.
Okay... as for live rock... the "best" are pieces of live rock with good coralline algae growth IMO (The pink/purple stuff growing on the rock). Personally, I think the perfect piece of live rock is rock with a lot of coralline growth with absolutely NO hitchhikers, good or bad. As far as type (tonga, fiji...etc) I'd say that's all personal preference because their major difference is pretty much shape. "Cured" rock is just a way of saying that a rock has enough beneficial bacteria growth on it to continuously run the nitrogen cycle and is no longer releasing ammonia from dying organisms resulting in shipping or being out of water. "Uncured" of course means the opposite. Any rock that is removed from a tank regardless of being shipped in wet newspaper or not, will have dying organisms on it, and should be treated as "uncured" when you receive it. To cure rock, you need to put it in a tank or tub with a fresh batch of saltwater, a powerhead, and heater. You then monitor the ammonia/nitrite/nitrate levels in that tank/tub for the expected nitrogen cycle spikes (I'm sure you already know how to do this). Once the proper levels are reached (0 Ammonia/Nitrate, Positive Nitrate reading), then your rock is "cured".
Also, I know you're coming from a Cichlid background, and there are some differences you need to note. Firstly, get rid of the bioballs or whatever biomedia you're used to running. You'll be using the live rock as the biological filtration from now on. If you want to use sponges or floss as mechanical filtration, these need to be cleaned very well every single week to prevent detritus build-up (and ultimately nitrate build-up). You know how Cichlid tanks prefer a PH in the 8.2-8.4 range? Well, same rule applies for reef tanks. Except, Alkalinity and Calcium need to be closely monitored in addition to PH monitoring. Live sand is overrated IMO... in fact, I've seen so many tanks going bare-bottom that have done great. It's absolutely optional. If you DO decide on getting live sand, stick with an aragonite base... don't bother with the crushed coral. Not because crushed coral "traps" nitrates... which is complete BS... but because crushed coral I BELIEVE won't dissolve like aragonite will to buffer your PH... someone please correct me if I'm wrong.
Umm... what else... You'll need a hydrometer at the least, to monitor salinity (refractometer preferred). Having a hyrometer though, is better than nothing. So please, invest in one.
Anyways... this reply has gotten long, and there's so much more I could say, but I'd like to wait for more specific questions from you. Good luck.