Started a list for a 10gal would like opinions.

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doubletail

New Member
Havent posted here in a while glad everything is well here...

Have been reading up on saltwater tanks again and have come up with this list... (blue is what I have)

1. 10g AGA (have)
2. AC50 filter possibly AC70 - (modded to fuge)
3. Korelia Nano Powerhead
4. 50W heater - (Jagr)
5. DIY ATO
6. Refractometer - (Marine Depot Aquarium Refractometer)
7. Light Fixture - (searching)
8. Salt -(Instant Ocean)
9. Salwater testkit - (API)
10. Another power head to mix salt (whatever is cheap maxijet?)
11. Another heater to heat salt mix (have)
12. Some reef, light, chem. books (searching)
13. RO/DI water from lfs


Livestock:
1. Zoas
2. Ricordias
3. Shrooms
4. Hammers
5. Frogspawns
6. CUC (searching)
7.LR 10 or more lbs/LS 10lbs


On the filter I would prefer a AC70 but ill see what I can find...

The light fixture is what is giving me the biggest problem from moving foward (I guess scared to pick the wrong one) for 2 reasons:

1. I know that livestock 1-3 would be good under 2x40watt PC lighting but not sure on the hammer and frogspawn.

2. I'm not sure on what size fixture fits over a 10g. The 10g is 20" long but I see alot of people using 24" fixtures are these better for some reason? maybe they are actually smaller than what they say? dont know...


Little background:
I have been keeping freshwater for a year now 7 of those months planted and would like to try my hand at saltwater hoping it goes well
:victory

Anything else you guys think I should add,change,remove?

Thanks

DB
 
TimSchmidt

TimSchmidt

New Member
No the lights are the size stated. The hammer and frogspawn should be *OK*. But if you want to make sure everything thrives a couple T5s with individual reflectors will get you there with just a small increase in price but no heat increase.

20" long light fixture will work fine for you. I imagine people just want the stronger lights at the 24" range.
 
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doubletail

New Member
Well for the filter found a AC110 for $40 cant complain haha

As for the light I decided on the T5 while talking to a friend although he didnt say anything about individual reflectors although makes... more light down than sideways.

With a little searching found a 20" Nova Extreme Pro for 257 shipped think its a good deal?
 
TimSchmidt

TimSchmidt

New Member
The individual reflectors are what make the T5s such a good source of light. Other wise they are just big power compacts. Nova extreme seem to used quite a bit, just I recommend buying from a reputable source in case of issues with shipping or damage to the bulbs.
 
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doubletail

New Member
blue = have
green = working on

1. 10g AGA (have)
2. AC 110 filter - (modded to fuge)
3. Korelia Nano Powerhead
4. 50W heater - (Visitherm)
5. DIY ATO
6. Refractometer - (Marine Depot Aquarium Refractometer)
7. Light Fixture - (Nove Extreme Pro)
8. Salt -(Instant Ocean)
9. Salwater testkit - (API)
10. Another power head to mix salt (whatever is cheap maxijet?)
11. Another heater to heat salt mix (have)
12. Some reef, light, chem. books (searching)
13. RO/DI water from lfs
14. Small light for refugium
15. 5 gallon container
16. 2 5gallon buckets for water change

Okay getting there slowy but surely. :wlift

WOW the 110 was alot bigger than I thought haha it only left 5 inches to work with on one side luckily everything fits in the filter itself and im very happy with its flow and size but ill keep the koralia nano in there to add a little fighting current

The DIY ATO Id like to follow how aquahub have ther "premium" kit although I would like to try it with a battery powered pump I have think it would still do the job fine?

Im thinking of making a small over flow for the filter intake so that the only thing you see is the powerhead. Also what would be a thermometer? right now I have coralifes but would like something more accurate...

It also seems I just keep adding to the list haha
 
TimSchmidt

TimSchmidt

New Member
LOL I just use the coralife. The actual temp doesn't bother me too much, just the stability of that temp. Not sure on your battery powered pump, try it and see.
 
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doubletail

New Member
the thing with the coralifes is that one has the correct temp and the other is like 4 degrees of haha needless to say thats the one thats going to be replaced. Since it says they are supposed to have a .01 error only.

My temp ranges from 78 to 80 through out the day not really worried about that. Im worried about the salinity in just in 2 days the water evaporated 1/2" which would make it raise a good amount hence the ATO. Right now my goal is to try to get temps as stable as I can But I cant really do that until I get the light since that is also a variable on temp

Also waiting for the ATO stuff to get here taking too long...
 
TimSchmidt

TimSchmidt

New Member
That much of a temperature swing isn't too much to be concerned about. LOL I hate waiting for packages, seems to take forever.
 
T

Tswifty

New Member
Looks like your off to a good start. One thing I will suggest... make sure you test your pre-mixed SW before you add it to the tank, and allow it appropriate time to mix... then buffer to match when needed before adding it. Freshly mixed SW has a very high pH and there is a lot going on. Giving it a few hours to settle (I mix mine overnight) goes a long way.

Back to the testing... the reason I said to test, is that I see you are planning on using Instant Ocean salt. Instant Ocean has a pretty good reputation, and is known to be more consistent batch to batch than it's sister "Reef Crystals." However, people (myself included) have reported receiving batches which mix up to a 14 dKH alkalinity level (12 dKH is the standard level at a S.G. of 1.0265). In larger systems this isn't THAT big of a deal, but in a small system it could swing your levels considerably.

Also the individual reflectors on T5's are what makes them capable of competing with Metal Halide Systems. The individual parabolic reflectors increase the light intensity around 300% compared to just running the bulbs alone. However, most of the corals you listed are pretty forgiving in terms of lighting, and I think a normal output T5 system would do you just fine since the tank is only 12" tall. That being said, I would still choose a unit which utilizes at least 4 bulbs.

Good Luck.
 
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doubletail

New Member
Tswifty: the saltwater will be mixed by me (dont like the idea of LFS doing it). Thanks for the tip on mixing it overnight didnt think of that. Have any recommendations on a buffer?

The reason why I wanted to go with the individual reflectors is for 3 reasons

1. Because of the possiblity of upgrading a year after this setup I wouldnt have to buy a new light fixture but since I like long tanks I dont think it would matter since I would need a longer light fixture anyway.
2. Because those extra 2" on each side would keep knawing at my brain and make me go crazy. (Just about every light is 24" not 20")
3. Although your right about the corals being ok in non individual reflectors I would like for them to be Awsome :cool1: to do that I need the individual reflectors

And anyway you never know I might end up with a cube and still be able to use the fixture haha

Ok i have made a little progress. Added a black vynal(sp?) to the tank and finally modded the AC500. Also bought a glass thermometer. I was right one of my coralifes was going crazy the other is perfect.

FRONT


As you can see I put a lot of silicone I there even sanded the sides so it can grab better.




BLACK BACKGROUND




EDIT: Crap the pics came out huge sorry
 
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doubletail

New Member
If I cant find a coralife pc light fixture ill go with a 10W 6500k desk lamp i have

Also quick question TimSchmidt I read somewhere here you have the aquahub kit. What is the output of the transformer? Their website confuses me because it says its a 12V transformer and the pic shows a 9V 300ma transformer...
 
TimSchmidt

TimSchmidt

New Member
I don't believe Aquahub sells the kit I have anymore. My kit had me take a grounded extension cord and tap into that via a 9v battery operated switch. I don't have anything but the powerhead plugged in. The only downside is if my top off reservoir empties then the pump and the batter may go dead. (there are kits out there that will keep this happening)

This kit has everything you need but the power head and extension cord if I'm not mistaken.


Here are the instructions.
 
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doubletail

New Member
I think ill just go with the kit and keep my floatswitches as backup and make my life easier.

If i put an overflow in the tank and water is evaporating where would the evaporation show? in the tank itself or inside the overflow?
 
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