moonlight

oscarone

New Member
I want to make my own LED moonlight for a 96"x 30" deep tank. Does anyone have tips on how to do this the 'right' way the first time (i.e. best wattage for 30" depth, lights not too close/too far apart, quality lights that won't burn out in 6 monthes, etc.)? Thanks
p.s. I made my own trickle filter that is working perfectly if anyone is interested.
 

Trogdor

New Member
I made one from 4 blue 3mm leds from LSDiodes.com They are 5900mcd brightness (won't find any at Radio Shack that bright). I mounted them on a printed circuit board and soldered them all in series and added a 150ohm resistor before the leds for protection. Leds won't burn out in 6 months unless they are over powered. I mounted it in a project box from Radio Shack and used a 120VAC to 12VDC power convertor. It gives a nice blue glow to the tank.







I redrilled the plastic box so that a few of the lights would be more spread out and it helped distribute light to more of the tank.
 

Phischy

New Member
When I was buying mine a guy at the store recomended taking a small diameter white PVC pipe and cutting it lengh wise to give you a 'half piple' and mounting the leds into the axis and toward each other so the light would be dispersed along the length of the pipe and the white acts like a reflector, thus giving you even coverage and no spotlight effect. I have not tried this yet. I got 1watt LED's and they were only 10bux apiece, I figure this is better than worrying about burning my place down through a short.
 

Trogdor

New Member
Almost all LED's are 1w and they shouldn't cost you $10/ea. I got mine for $.45/ea at lsdiodes.com That's an interesting idea on a reflector.
 

Phischy

New Member
This was a ready to run unit off the shelf, included housing, LED and powersupply. Maybe I've got too much cash to burn (ha, not really) but I would have had to go buy a sodering gun and everything else to do it so I went the easy route and just bought it ready to go off the shelf. I may try the moonlight reflector idea later. My 'spotlights' aren't bad so I'm really not too worried about it right now.
 

oscarone

New Member
Phischy said:
This was a ready to run unit off the shelf, included housing, LED and powersupply. Maybe I've got too much cash to burn (ha, not really) but I would have had to go buy a sodering gun and everything else to do it so I went the easy route and just bought it ready to go off the shelf. I may try the moonlight reflector idea later. My 'spotlights' aren't bad so I'm really not too worried about it right now.
I haven't found any good deals on moonlights suchas the $10 one you found so that is why I decided to make my own. I like the pvc idea. I don't want to have one or two spots of light. Want I really want is the most natural looking lighting as if the full bright moon really was shining over my tank. Maybe a row or two of the pvc setup would accomplish this.
 

oscarone

New Member
Trogdor said:
I made one from 4 blue 3mm leds from LSDiodes.com They are 5900mcd brightness (won't find any at Radio Shack that bright). I mounted them on a printed circuit board and soldered them all in series and added a 150ohm resistor before the leds for protection. Leds won't burn out in 6 months unless they are over powered. I mounted it in a project box from Radio Shack and used a 120VAC to 12VDC power convertor. It gives a nice blue glow to the tank. Oh yeah, what does the resitor do (i.e. how/in what way does it 'protect')?







I redrilled the plastic box so that a few of the lights would be more spread out and it helped distribute light to more of the tank.
I am not familiar with the differnt types of LEDs. What is the major difference between a 3mm and 5mm (more light? Last longer??). What made you chose 5900 mcd (and what is mdc?!) and not the smaller or bigger numbers? What would have to be done to make the "pvc strip cut in half" work mentioned after this post? Do you have to use the circuit board material (i.e. in the long strip set up)? Thanks for the tips, links and images!
 

Trogdor

New Member
1. What is the major difference between a 3mm and 5mm (more light? Last longer??).
The difference is just the size. Depending on your application you may need a smaller or larger light.

2. What made you chose 5900 mcd (and what is mdc?!) and not the smaller or bigger numbers?
MCD is an abbreviation for millicandles. It's similar to candlelights which is what flashlights and the like are measured in. Many places will give a lumens number but that only measures the amount of reflective light. MCD is a better way to measure the overall brightness of a light. LSDiodes.com sells extremely bright LED's, which many have a warning for possible eye damage if you look directly into them for periods of time. (kind of cool...lol) They have some white leds that are rated at 11000mcd. BTW...I wouldn't go as bright as possible on LED's (higher mcd number) for an aquarium. I had these laying around the house and thought that they would work well. The higher the mcd the deeper the light will penetrate.

3. What would have to be done to make the "pvc strip cut in half" work mentioned after this post?
First you would need to geta piece of PVC that spans the length of your tank, make sure that it is white PVC and not grey. Then with a table saw or a bandsaw you would need to cut it in half, length wise, so that it looks like a really long U. You could either drill holes on one side and direct the light upwards into the U or you could drill the holes straight and just catch the other side. (IMO the first way would generate more light into the tank) Then you would need to determine how you plan to power the LEDs which will determine how you wire them as well. To make a moonlight you need to understand how to step-down a voltage using resistors to the required (forward voltage) voltage of the LED. Too much voltage will blow the LED's...too little and they won't light up.

4. Do you have to use the circuit board material (i.e. in the long strip set up)?
No you don't have to use a circuit board. I chose to in order to keep everything as 1 unit and to help keep the legs of the leds from touching. I also placed some di-electric grease on all exposed metal to keep them from rusting and corroding into the tank.

5. What does the resitor do (i.e. how/in what way does it 'protect')?
The resistor 'steps down' the incoming voltage. The powersupply that I was using was rated at 12vdc but when I cut the cord and checked the actual voltage it was at 15vdc (3vdc higher than anticipated). Each led that I used has a foward-voltage of 3.3vdc. (Series circuit is where each positive leg on the led is wired to the negative leg in front of it...so it looks like this in a schematic +-+-+-+- Parallel circuits is where each positive leg of the led is powered from the powersupply) When you wire the leds in series, each light will step the incoming power down by 3.3volts. So with a 12vdc powersupply each light is using 3.3volts of the powersupply. (hope I am making sense) If i ran them in parallel then each led would receive 12vdc, which is too much voltage.

Series Circuit


Parallel Circuit


Hopefully this answered your questions. LSDiodes.com has been one of the cheapest sites that I have found that carries LEDs that are this bright. Their not out to make a killing off of LED's like most companies and they try to keep their prices low.
 

Trogdor

New Member
My setup costed me less than $10. Here is a list of what I used.

4- 3mm blue LED's = $2.00 (lsdiodes.com)
2"x3" project box = $2.29 (RadioShack cat#270-1801)
Powersupply = free (came with MS Sidewinder Forcefeedback Joystick, most 5vdc or 12vdc powersupplies can be found for ~$5)
circuit board = $1.79 (RadioShack cat#276-148, might have to cut to fit in box)
150ohm Resistor = <$.25

If you have any more questions about my setup or how to wire them let me know...
 

oscarone

New Member
wow! thats great. thanks for the detail. I realize my lack of electronics knowledge makes this project more difficult to understand. I made my trip to radio shack and got the circuit boards, 24 guage wire, 3v power supply (I guess I am going to wire it 'parallell' so I can wire all 12 LEDs. I also had to buy solder and a solder gun as I didn't have these things. RS did not have much of a selection on LEDs and I don't think I want to go so bright as 5900...maybe 1100 and lots of overlap to tone down the spotlight effect. I also found an LED with 120 degree range so I like that idea better than 30 degrees. Now all I have to do is see if I can solder "corectly" having never does this before. I plan to look for some demonstrations online of how it should be done and look. Thanks again for your tips :)
 

Trogdor

New Member
One tip on soldering. Push the wire through the circuit board hole and fold it over making an "L" shape however far out you want the LED to be from the board. Then put some solder on the tip of the soldering gun and then with one hand pull the led a little so that the L is against where you want to solder and then solder it in place. Otherwise it will move around on ya. Hope that helps a bit. BTW...what kind of soldering gun did you get? Was it the ones that are narrow and you hold it like a pencil or the big ass gun looking ones? Let me know if you need anymore help
 

oscarone

New Member
in my effort to 'save money' by the diy I bought the least expensive gun they had which is...the big ass gun :cry: I could return it if you think that would be a huge yes...?
 

djconn

New Member
Wow Trogdor! Great posts. I'm gonna take that route next time I do moonlights on my tanks. Thanks :lol:
 

Trogdor

New Member
Thanks DJ...

The big gun is fine as long as you can control it. I like the pencil style just because they are more accurate and I solder boards on occassion and need a nice tiny point. It's a matter of personal choice.

I plan on eventually doing a DIY topoff but I haven't choosen a float switch yet. I want to make sure that i build it so that if the switch sticks that it doesn't overflow the tank. Maybe 2 switches are needed so that they both have to turn on to activate the topoff.
 
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