kH/AK

Phischy

New Member
I just did a test using a Salfert kit for KH/AK and both are high. I'm reading 9.7/3.5. What, exactly, does this mean? I know I can get it back to seawater/nominal range but what or how does this affect the system as a whole?

Going to RC to read up on it now.
Thanks
 

Phischy

New Member
Yup, I was reading on RC a few articles and I found out I'm right in the nominal range. So I'm pleased. Now to just get my tank looking clean!
 

mikeguerrero

Active Member
I purchased the test today and got a reading equal to real ocean water as the test instructions suggest, so I assume just a little of what is normal is better since I heard my LFS say, he likes to keep it just a little higher than normal...

Mike
 

djconn

New Member
Alkalinity is the one thing I constantly battle. I can never seem to get it just right. Most people constantly battle with their calcium levels. I battle my Alk. It just seems to dissipate so fast!
 

Physh1

New Member
Do you add any magnesium DJ? It will help quite a bit.

Here are some things I will copy over from my website....they may help....

http://www.californiareefs.com/tanktechchemistry.htm

Alkalinity (meq/L) - General Hardness (dkH): With working at a fish store since I was 14 there is one question I've encountered more than most. Why does my pH drop and what can I do to fix it? Most get confused when I tell them you generally don't fix pH directly but instead test and correct your alkalinity. To put it relatively simple terms the alkalinity of a solution, in a reef tank it would be saltwater, refers to its' ability to counteract drops in pH. Drops in pH, for example, can be associated to general day to day biological breakdown of nutrients. The higher your alkalinity the more likely you will be to have a stable pH value. Fairly simple there but then you have to look at the 2 most common scales used to check you alkalinity level. One measurement is read in milliequivalents per liter. The other is measured as degrees of carbonate hardness. Conversion from one to another is pretty simple. If you have a meq/L (say 2.5) and would like it in dkH you would multiply the meq/L by 2.8 to get a dkH value of 7.0. The same applies the other way. A dkH value of 7 would need to be divided by 2.8 to get a meq/L value of 2.5. Natural seawater has a meq/L value of 2.1 to 2.5 (dkH of 6-7) but most captive systems should be a a value of roughly 2.8-3.2 (dkH of 8-9). I keep my level at around 12 dkH. My clams and stony corals seem to do much better that way. Please refer to the next section for dosing recommendations.
Magnesium: Magnesium seems to be overlooked pretty often when it comes to solving problems with calcium and alkalinity stability. As a guide it seems that a level of 1200-1350 PPM is acceptable. Some kits, like Salifert for instance, say a level up to 1500 PPM is good too. I would find anything between 1200-1500 PPM good and if levels drop below 800 PPM can cause issues with keeping calcium levels up and sometimes causes low pH values. On the flipside of this any magnesium levels too high can cause a problem unstable alkalinity level. If you are battling these type of alkalinity or calcium issues and have not checked your magnesium levels I would suggest checking with a good kit. To also add, it is a known magnesium depletion is commonly associated with the use of kalkwasser. I personally have had a calcium problem and bringing my magnesium level back into an acceptable range fixed my problem. I have also heard that many of the LIQUID magnesium supplements contain ammonia so that may be something to look into when picking a magnesium supplement. Please email me if any of this info is inaccurate.
Cameron
 
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