JPG Auto Top-Off for my 2.5MB

Master Er

New Member
Okay, after looking at various posts and good advice regarding an auto top-off, I went forward and made my own. My original plan ended up being too expensive...$20, well not that expensive. It would have been nice but I think I was able to make something better worth $4.

Auto Top-Off JPG style. Thats because I used the canister that came with the "Jean Paul Gaultier" perfume I got for my fiance.


Sealed it, put a custom rubber stopper out of a gigantic syringe, and attached 2 air inlets and 1 outlet. The first inlet is gravity based.


The other inlet is for the float switch pump if I do decide to use a float switch....its the small black hose.....I sealed it with silicone temporarily.


Heres the air pump for that. I opened it up and soldered the wires directly inside, slipped the wires through a piece of airline tubing, added a rubber grommet and tadah!!!.....I didnt like having a cheasy looking extension cord attached. If I do use it, I will attach that to the side of the container.


Before I painted the whole thing black, I masked a small strip to act as water content indicator. Dont be fooled by the shadow being cast by the hood.


And heres the full view mounted on the HOB with some velcro and it can hold almost a liter of water, that would last almost 2 weeks. But since I do weekly water changes, I just filled it half way.


So thats it....Nothing really new about it, I just made it sexy. It wasnt the original plan but I think its better than what I originally thought of. My 2.5 is now a hassle free Pico.
 

Master Er

New Member
Thanks Incysor. I really wouldnt have thought of that if it werent for the PICO I was building and the useful insights you guys have provided me with here on NanoTank. And if I did use the float switch, I wouldnt have to place the container on the HOB. But i'm trippin with it for now so i'll leave it first as is. Thanks again.
 

Master Er

New Member
Oh yeah, the perfume costs around $45. If you do get one for your wife/girlfriend/fiance, you'll be hiting 2 birds with one stone....Top-Off for you, Perfume for her.....as for the scent, soon after you'll both have your clothes all off!!! Hehehehe!!! :D
 

mikeguerrero

Active Member
Wow,

I'm amazed at your ability on fabrication, you are a true leader in this department. I'm sure you are setting a standard here on this website. Keep up the good work and thanks for sharing; I love pics.

Mike
 

Master Er

New Member
Aww shuck....it was nothing...but thanks for the compliment...I'm sure there are others out there who are better.....they just dont want to show it. Nanotank inspired me to do my DIY's because everyone here are a big help to me in this hobby so in return, i'd like to share the things that I have done. Thanks again Mike.
 

Master Er

New Member
The small diameter hose is the water return...the bigger one is the the vacuum hose which is set into the tank leveled on the desired water level. As long as the big hose is leveled on the waters surface, water will not flow out of the airline tubing. Initially when you do level it on the surface, water will flow out of the airline. thats because theres extra air in the bigger hose. But thats okay since it will evaporate...after that things will be fine and it'll work properly. I checked the salinity in my Pico after 5 days...1.024. As I originally mixed it from the start. :D
 

drty811

New Member
cool thanks for the reply

im thinking about making one for my ten gallon since im not running a top....
GREAT DIYer thread....
 

Master Er

New Member
To make the setting easy, I permanently glued a piece of rigid tubing on my canopy (the black tube shown in picture) which is leveled with the water...that way whenever I do disconnect the hose, I dont have to see if the hose is level when I return it back on. Makes it alot easier.
 

r00onmac

New Member
ive been inspired by your DIY... but is there any way you can post a drawing or more detailed pics about how it works exactly? i think i have it right in my head i just want to make sure before i build it and find out i missed a key element...

the large hose that is level with the water allows the water to stop going into the tank when its full, but when the water level drops a little it causes water to syphon out of the top off container into the tank until it hits the large hose again and stops the flow, right?

and if i am going to use it like that i dont need to put the rubber plug thing on top, thats for if you add a float switch....

whats the pump for? pardon if its a dumb dumb dumb question, im just not seeing it in the diagram in my head...
 

Master Er

New Member
r00onmac-yes drty811 is right, thats the plug to refill the water container...the container should be airtight and rigid...any flex on the container will either suck water from the tank via the large hose with water spewing out of the small hose or water will keep flowing out from the small tube until your tank overflows. And also it is important that the large hose is at least 1-1/2 to 2 feet in length...I tried it with a shorter hose, tank water went up the large hose and into the water container. The longer hose makes the pull of gravity inside the hose stronger. I will try to make a diagram...I dont have one since I just pictured it in my head. But from what you described, you are on the right track. :D
 

r00onmac

New Member
good to hear im not a complete idiot.... also glad to see that 4 years of an engineering/science/technology magnet in my high school didnt go to waste completely....
 

Master Er

New Member
Sorry for the delay...I will have to draw a diagram first...its all in my head. But if youre in a hurry, heres a step by step procedure.

Gather:
1pc. Vinyl Hose 1/2" OD X 3/8"ID (2 feet)
1pc. Airline Tubing (1-1/2' feet)
1pc. Micro Ball Valve or similar
1pc. Wooden Airstone
1pc. Air-tight Rigid Container (or make your own)
1pc. Giant Syringe or any rubber stopper
1pc. 3/8" L-plastic fitting (like the one you see in the picture where the large tube attaches)
Super Glue
Silicone (optional for extra sealing)

Step 1:
Unscrew the plastic fitting from the wooden airstone and set aside. You dont need the airstone, just the plastic fitting.
Step 2:
Get your rigid container and drill a small hole at the bottom just big enough for the plastic fitting to fit snugly. Apply super glue one the plastic fitting generously but not too much then insert into the pre drilled hole and hold it firmly until its securely attached. When dry, again apply super glue around the fitting.
Step 3:
If the container your using has a tight screw on lid, you wont need the rubber stopper or large syringe. Get the 3/8" L plastic fitting (if you can find a straight one, then better) and cut the part with the barbs off...doing so you'll end up having a straight fitting (thats why a straight fitting is better). Now drill a hole on the lid of your container, preferably in the center, which is large enough to accomodate the same fitting snugly. Dont forget to apply super glue generously on the fitting that has the most contact with the lid. Let this dry and apply super glue again. If you have silicone, silicone the inside of the fitting and the lid.

If your container doesnt have a screw on lid, you will have to make one yourself...its not easy to find the perfect container. If you do have one, do the same thing you did as above but this time do not put the fitting in the center. Get your rubber stopper (i'll explain the syringe if you do plan on using it...but for now its better to look for a tight screw on lidded container)and make a hole large enough but not too large on the container next to the fitting. You want the rubber stopper to be tight. So as to prevent any air leaks.

Step 4:
Having done everything above, attach the airline tubing to the small fitting on the bottom of the container. Attach the 1/2" x 3/8" tubing to the 3/8" fitting on the top of the container. Everything must be attached properly. To check for leaks, cover one of the tubes, preferably the airline tubing and blow into the larger tube. You should feel some back pressure when you stop blowing. If not, apply more super glue onto the fittings. When completely leak free, attach the Micro ball valve to the small tubing. The length doesnt matter but you would want to attach the valve closer to the container.

Step 5:
Testing....Get a small basin and fill it with water half way.....fill your container with water and keep the valve closed so as to avoid spilling water all over the place. Now level the large tube on the surface of the water. Even if you submerge it by an inch is just fine since youre just testing anyway. While the large hose is submerged, open the micro valve and direct it to point towards the basin. Initially water will flow since there is still some air pressure in the large hose. When this stops, play around with the level of the large hose to see how well the vacuum system is working. If water keeps on flowing even if the large hose is submerged, that means there is a leak in your container. Check the large fitting and the large hose and the lid. When no leaks are detectable then your good to go. By then you'd probably know how to set this in your tank. The container must be at least an inch above the aquarium. Adjust the large hose according to the water level you want and do not let the small hose touch the water.

Hyewiz, once you have done this, let me know if youre encountering any problems. If you do evrything accordingly, and no leaks detected. When you set this in your tank, you will initially have some excess water flowing in. It'll stop and evaporate, after that it will be stable. So dont worry about the excess flow. Just make sure the container and the hoses are leak free....you dont want the whole contents of your container flowing into the tank. Test it first. Most of the parts are easy to find but the hard part in explaining is the syringe.
 
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