Cyanobateria

[Didger]

It has been quite a while since I posted, but I am still getting nowhere with my "new" AqauPod.
It was mid March (The Ides??) that I set up my tank.
12 gal Aquapod, 20 lb LS, 16 lb Fiji LR and later general clean up crew.
Can't get RO so use distilled and airate it for about 48 hours.
I missed the spike but all levels are good ans always have been.
I have varied all parameters like lighting cycles and do at least a 3 gallon water change every week.

I am full of cyno! I suction it out every week but it comes back!
I am on the verge of stripping down and starting over again???
I have not seen any "life" in the LR.
The tank has a "16" pump (160 gallons/hour?).

Is it possible to get rid of the cyno, or is starting over again the only option?
Should I have seen any "life" from my LR - could this be a problem?
Is 160 gal/hour enough?
Is there any difference between distilled and RO?

I really want a reef tank but do not feel that I can add any livestock till I get this problem sorted out.
I would really appreciate any advice... Thanks.

Geoff aka Didger

 

[Anonymous]

my aquapod has independent lighting so i'm assuming yours does as well....
first off since you have no corals i would run the actinic light only, (no white light at all for now) and only a few hours a day at most
second add a small power head to add flow to the tank - blow it into or behind the rock or bounce it off the glass.
third get some phosphate remover and put some in a bag in the 2nd/3rd chamber or get some pads like these and cut them to fit in there i like these pads, the the granular stuff in a media bag is just as good:
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/P ... 004+113810
fourth my aquapod came with this huge blue sponge cut it into three pieces and use only one at a time pushing it down about 6" so it covers the output to the 2nd chamber then make sure you clean it often - this will also aid in the surface skimming as well
fifth put some carbon in a bag and put that in the 2nd/3rd chamber
sixth - give it some time to clean up - then start to slowly build up a light cycle

 

[Didger]

Thanks for the quick reply John.
I have already started on your points. Still have to get out to buy some phosphate remover.
You said use 1/3 of the supplied sponge and push down 6" to cover the output to the 2nd chamber? My output to the second chamber is at the bottom of the divider, so the sponge has to be pushed all the way to the bottom??

 

[Anonymous]

yea there is a false bvottom in the second chamber that is no in the first chamber in mine so no not all the way down- just far enough so the output is centered on the sponge is how i have mine
good luck - this should help

 

[brandon]

i use to have a huge problem with cyanobacteria
i noticed that when i added chaeto to my tank, it got alot better

if that doesnt work, then a product called red slime remover and chemi-clean both have great reviews from other people

 

[Anonymous]

yea brandon is right chaeto or some form of refuge always helps - just is a bit tougher to add to a aquapod cause the lights as is won't hit the back area with out a mod. you could put any variety of macro algaes in the tank though after you get the cyano cleaned up and can start running a light cycle
however i personally don't like those quick fix products like red slime remover although as brandon said some have had success with them

 

[Didger]

I am not sure what chaeto is or where to get it?
Can it be added to the tank or must it go in a refugium?

Geoff

 

[skipm]

Chaeto is short for chaetomorpha which is a macroalgae, it is also commonly called spaghetti alge or brillo pad algae. You can also use one of the caulerpa varieties but they can go sexual and release everything the have taken up back into the tank. The way that macros help get rid of the cyano is that they compete for available nutrients and the macros win, this ends up causing the cyano to starve and whither away.
Products like red slime remover are basically antibiotics (usually erithromyacin) and they can also cause disturbances in your nitrifying bacterial bed which can cause ammonia and nitrite spikes which we know are not good for our tanks inhabitants. Try the phosphate sponges and some macroalgae, reduced photoperiods and increased flow before you use the "quick fix" products. Good luck.

 

[TimSchmidt]

These suggestions are all great and will help but I think the best bet for you is to break down and buy a RO/DI unit. You don't have to buy a brand name RO/DI unit, they all use the same filters, you just will have to be a little gentle with the cheaper housings on the cheap filter units. You can buy a RO/DI unit on ebay for about 100.00. Sounds like a bit up front but think of all that carbon, phosphate remover, and hassle you will have to go through. Start with pure water and then you will only have to use those chemicals to help with the random (and not so random, like when you accidently dump a ton of food in your tank) spikes of pollutants. This is just my two cents but it sounds like you are getting quite frustrated. This hobby is supposed to be relaxing :lol: :razz: (I think :cool1: ) Just my two cents. Good luck with the cyano.