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The tanks temp is higher than the house temp because of mechanical devices like filter and pumps plus the fish and other inhabitants metabolism also adds to the heat, you can even have some heat due to chemical reactions like the tanks biological cycle. You have hit on the biggest problem with...

I had a little hair algae growing on the spillway of my powerfilter and my porcelin crab decided that he liked hanging out in the flow and relaxing, I am not to sure how he even managed to get up there.

You may need a little more LR but you are off to a good start. Lighting should work out great, especially in a shallow tank like this where you'll be able to keep most corals with no problem. You will need to find a new home for the whelk in a much larger tank because a 20 just isn't large...

I see, I was afraid that we weren't going to see this tank develope. Is this just a hobby building tanks or do you work in acrylics?

Unless you plan to never keep anything but low light corals in the 44r then I agree with the others on the MH. On the 10 you can use the PCs that Brandon mentioned with good results or you can DIY a canopy and install your own combo of PCs (I think you can go up to 36 watt bulbs in a 20"...

If you go with the MH you will be able to keep clams and SPS corals when you get everything settled. I think that these Fission Skimers need to be run with a set of baffles after them to control microbubbles. If you intend for this to be a reeftank you may want to replace the bioballs with LR...

Why are you getting rid of this tank already? Have you decided to build another with a different design or something?

Looks like the dogs and him have made friends.

If you use electrical conduit fittings you can use a male on one side and a female fiting on the other. The big difference between the two types of fittings is the electrical fittings don't have tapered threads and can be screwed all the way together (they are also usually gray but that doesn't...

Eggcrate panels have been used quite often as tops to keep jumpers under control. You can find it in most home centers, usually with the ceiling tiles. Its real use is light diffusing panels to be used with suspended ceilings.

Not cute, just EVIL!!!!!!!!! Crush, Kill, Destroy!!!!! :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:

I also found all of the instructions somewhere on their site as PDF files.

I have noted that you need to put a space after a link before adding a period otherwise it ends up being part of the link your posting. I know some people will go crazy over this but I have used lava rock in a nano before, it was used for dwarf seahorses and I wasn't going to risk adding...

IMO the biggest thing with heat is keeping a consistent temp. and with nanos it can be hard to stay below 80. I feel that as long as you can maintain 82 or below (down to 77 or 78) you will have no troubles. I haven't seen any problems in tanks kept at >83 but above that everything seems to go...

Eddy, Is that the dreaded zoo eating nudibranch on your avatar now? I like the gobies alot more, those things give me the creeps.

I agree with J & D, there is something that strikes me as a big warning flag with these folks. I have heard good things about www.illuming.com if you can consider a retrofit as opposed to a fixture. I would stick with a tried and true company otherwise. Just my .02.

Great point idog.

Flatworms or not I still really like this tank and its progression. :mrgreen:

The low wattage should be no problem for a FOWLR. If you are gpoing to have to build a canopy and all for the MH and plan to upgrade soon you may just want to wait and set the tank up about a month before the upgrade, then it is cycling and needs no light while your building the canopy and...

If the tank already has any lighting, like a NO fluorescent then you can use it as long as you are only going to have fish and cleaning inverts and upgrade the lighting later. If you have to buy the lighting anyway then I would suggest going ahead and buying the lighting you need for the tank...