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IMO a 12 gallon tank is a bit on the small side for a maroon clown. I would go with either an ocellarous or true percula clown in a 12 and you could still add another small fish like a clown gobie or one of the small shrimp gobies like a yase hashe or hi finned red banded.

The way I think about this when talking about nutrient export is that a refugium deals with built up waste products where a skimmer removes waste before it can breakdown and start building up.

I have read the advertisiments for the tank and I am also quite interested to see one but there isn't anyone in my area that has them in stock yet.

It is quite normal for new occupants tio hide until they have acclimated to the tank, this is especially true if you have fast moving or aggressive tankmates. They usually get used to their surroundings and become more visible within a few days unless someone is being a bully.

The brown algae you refer to is a diatom bloom and is a natural part of your tanks cycle. It will go away on its own in a little while but you can keep stirring it up to keep it from making your sandbed look bad. Siphoning it out as already mentioned is another option but its not a sign of...

How long have you had any fish or inverts in the tank and how long has it been set up? Did you happen to test for ammonia? How is it looking today?

How far from the lights are you able to place your corals and how deep is the tank minus the sandbed? The mushrooms and zoos will probably adjust to the light they have, just watch them to make sure they don't loose color. I would also add some food to the tank suitable for them so they are...

I don't think you will have any problems with too many, they will only reproduce to as many as your system will support. I haven't seen bright yellow ones either but I wouldn't be suprised, I think their diet may have an effect on their coloration.

I would think if anything along these lines it was a hydroid which is in the jellifish family. They don't pose a threat in aquariums unless they get to plague proportions and then they are hardest on fry and dwarf seahorses.

It may be possible to DIY a pair of 9 or 13 watt PCs in there.

The only problem I can forsee is if the bubbles are to fine they will act like a protien skimmer and you'll end up with heavy surface skum.

I may have to retract my post where I said it wouldn't work. I based my info on a friends experience and I don't think they treated the second time.

Chris at nanocustoms used to have some 12" T-5s he added into the Mike Guererro signature tank, maybe he can steer you in the right direction.

:welcome to the board, I look forward to hearing more about your progress.

I have some friends that inherited a 55 gallon from a friend that has the center brace broken, there is about a 1-1 1/2" gap between the ends of the brace where the tank has bowed. Don't do it! The plastic may be pretty flimsy but remember all it has to do is hold the tank from bowing.

They benefit from good lighting, decent current and occasional target feedings, I like cyclopeeze for feeding.

Sounds like a plan but you may want to skip lighting the tank all together while cycling the LR so you don't promote algal blooms while there are so many nutrients available during cycling.

I really like the SPS and zoo pics. Real nice work.

I have an 18 watt PC with a 50/50 bulb on my RedSea Melody tank (zoo quarantine tank) that I have been really satisfied with.

It is really hard to say for sure without pics. Your description as them being like lice makes me want to say some kind of pods which are a good thing. Calcium deposits on the glass would also be possible, I have seen tiny white dots of it before.